Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey boys, staying away from ns.com atm for this topic, i have recently noticed that after full boost around 3700-4000rpm, my car tends spin, almost like im doing mad skids cause i have staunch power or something! obviously its the clutch slipping! now im posting this so i can get an idea about what clutches felow sau people have where they got it done, prices and the likes

i hvae rb20 with 28/71 turbo, fuel pump, remap, fmic, basic shit, making around the 200 mark, only a low figure to needing some splitfires, injectors and afm!

now i have heard obviously everyones opinion will be different, that exedy are better than extreme, but again each to their own! had a price from isc, which was around $950 for 6puk extreme clutch, lightened fly, then i have to pay for some kent to install it! grrr, anyway havent had all that much time to look around and have a sus on prices e.t.c but would like your opinions ideads, contacts in the industry and some all round help!

thanks in advance

jonny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234481-clutch-and-flywheel/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well i ran a group buy for clutches a little while ago and am due to do another one soon

thay were a killer built clutch by NPC excedy pressure plate nismo center with Patrol 4.2lt disc machined to suit RB gearbox

rated for 350 kw with a 1220kg pressure plate

only one guy has installed it so far and i hear he's shredded 2 sets of tyres with it :P

if the other people that need clutch post up in here i will organise another group buy

EDIT

this was the Clutch i organised

NPC724B5.jpg<<CLick

Aussie Dyno n Tune will Supply and Fit a Cushion button Heavy Duty clutch for around a 1000 bux....go see them, they do heaps of them on customers and their own cars. IMO Exedy is better than an extreme, Ive tried both and Extreme clutches tend to shudder, have even seen one Stick to the flywheel to never come off lol. My Exedy in both my cars has put up with alot of punishment for a reasonable amount of time with decent power. I'd say keep the dollar local and buy an Extreme but Exedy is a much better clutch being Japanese.

Edited by Ryanrb25

ok >>here<< is the original thread that the group buy i made

please dont post in it

i can get those flywheels $100 cheaper too but need a minimum of 5 ordered on top of any clutches ordered and the minimum was 4 last time but 5 is a nice days work for NPC

Mine's pretty much stock besides an intercooler, pod and zorst so no major power and it's sometimes slipping in high revs in 1st and if I dump it in 2nd it's half slip half grip.

It's just starting to go.

you will easy be able to make it last a month or 2 if you dont boost and dont high rev it

that goes for all you guys go easy on your clutch

once your clutch starts to slip that it no more boost in 3rd and 4th and only small boost in other gears till it slips in 2nd then you know its very soon gunna go

well if I'm not gonna boost it I might as well drive the daily commodore. haha. That was the whole point of buying a 32. :D

Cheers for the advice tho.

well the 32 is gonna be off the road for 6 months anyway.

I was thinking something like a twin plate clutch coz it's not so heavy. Good idea or bad???

Edited by Fabs_32
Aussie Dyno n Tune will Supply and Fit a Cushion button Heavy Duty clutch for around a 1000 bux....go see them, they do heaps of them on customers and their own cars. IMO Exedy is better than an extreme, Ive tried both and Extreme clutches tend to shudder, have even seen one Stick to the flywheel to never come off lol. My Exedy in both my cars has put up with alot of punishment for a reasonable amount of time with decent power. I'd say keep the dollar local and buy an Extreme but Exedy is a much better clutch being Japanese.

ive got a extreme clutch 2 handle 300kw with matching lightened flywheel its a bastard 2 drive with, ask Ryan he stooled my car as soon he got in n tried 2 take off hahahahahahaha sorry ryan but me n michael couldnt but laugh

well if I'm not gonna boost it I might as well drive the daily commodore. haha. That was the whole point of buying a 32. :D

Cheers for the advice tho.

well the 32 is gonna be off the road for 6 months anyway.

I was thinking something like a twin plate clutch coz it's not so heavy. Good idea or bad???

thats just a silly statement when you car starts to brake down you take it easy

twin plate isnt needed for the mods you have just toughen up and get a heavy right foot

thats just a silly statement when you car starts to brake down you take it easy

twin plate isnt needed for the mods you have just toughen up and get a heavy right foot

I've already got a heavy right foot that's why my licence ain't no more, although my left foot might just need a work out then.

I do plan on more mods in the future. Just bought the car recently. Maybe about 220 at the wheels, i'd be happy.... until I got bored.

obviously fabs32 clutch will last alot longer than mine as his is pretty much stock and mine is running around 60-70 rwk! altho fab should enter a group buy or join in so we can all reap the benefits! so im thinking button clutch also and apparently if you keep a stock fly that its too much pressure with a heavier clutch so you will put to much load on the blah blah, i dont quite understand it all but the know it alls will understand!

as per ryans comment regarding exedy and extreme another person saying exedy is better! as per flywheels i dont quite understand the importance of them, but will trust everyone saying i need to upgrade!

anyone bought from any sponsors here? finding them helpful and cheap or whatever?

ta

jonny

i have recently noticed that after full boost around 3700-4000rpm

you know the pedals at your feet don't press the one on the far right down all the way and you should be ok too

apparently if you keep a stock fly that its too much pressure with a heavier clutch so you will put to much load on the blah blah

i don't know who told you this and what context it was in but sounds like an old wives tale

a heavy flywheel will help keep your torque but will slow rev. a lightened chromolly flywheel will spin up a lot quicker but you may loose some torque

Cubes has bought an excedy from Kudos Motorsport

damo i described the spinning as wheel spin, i actually know its not the wheels spinnning mate! so madaz who did you organise the group buy with the company ? you said you know of only one person who intalled the clutch and hes shredded 2 sets tyres? this mean it needs modifying to install it or the rest who bought them are lazy? also not having much sucess with suppliers nor prices, so if you have connections in the industry hook a brother up please!

ta

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...