Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTR has been full rebuilt with forgies, all the usual. Installed the engine started it set timing etc and drove 10ks and parked. Now car will not start. Wierd thing is it run for a coupla hours while we were setting it all up. No mechanical noise etc. Was missing on the way back on light to medium throttle which I figured could've been AFM's.

Engine turns over fine, tries to spark the first coupla rotations then wets the sparkies.

Things we've checked so far

- Fuel is getting thru. Maybe even too much, wet's the sparkies after a couple of turns.

- Have spark, tested with a coil out, although seems weak.

- Tried different CAS and set timing

- Tried different Ignitor (PCU)

- Removed and reseated fuel rail

- Tried different ECU

- Tried different Sparkies

- Reset Computer and TPS

- Checked Front mount hoses

- Cleaned AFMs

- Checked for kinks in return fuel line and fuel pressure

- Cleaned fuel filter

- Checked fuses

Car has:

Splitfire Coils

Stock ECU

Forged Pistons

N1 Oil

Fully Balanced bottom end

Head has been rebuilt and ported

Metal Head Gasket

Stock Injectors and stock pump

Did a ECU diagnostic come up with CAS, Knock Sensor and Ignition. Swapped the CAS and it cleared ignition and CAS, only knock sensor comes up intermittantly. There were a coupla grounding cables we missed connecting on top of the coolant inlet but these are connected now.

I've been thru every post I can find but can't find anything I haven't already tried. Any ideas of what else to check would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234572-32-gtr-not-starting/
Share on other sites

CAS is in the correct position? Locating key in end of exhaust cam is still there?

Leaking injector(s)? What is the fuel pressure?

REPLACED fuel filter?

Camshafts still aligned correctly (not skipped a tooth on the belt)?

What spark plugs?

The knock error is because of a fault in the knock sensors, not because you have knock. But it shouldn't prevent the engine starting.

CAS is in the correct position? Locating key in end of exhaust cam is still there?

Yes and Yes. Spins freely.

Leaking injector(s)? What is the fuel pressure?

Injectors were tested professionally before install we've taken em out since anyway and put em up to the air compressor no leakage. Fuel systems all stock (injectors, FPR, pump) we've taken the hoses off and run the pump. Plenty coming thru.

REPLACED fuel filter?

Haven't replaced it but you can whistle thru it. Besides fuel's getting in fine. Covers the sparkies.

Camshafts still aligned correctly (not skipped a tooth on the belt)?

Haven't taken that off yet, I'll have a look but it was all on tight and running a coupla days ago.

What spark plugs?

Tried iridiums and standard BCPR6ES coppers. Iridiums are a 7 I think, they were working in the car before the build.

The knock error is because of a fault in the knock sensors, not because you have knock. But it shouldn't prevent the engine starting.

Yeh, figured that. Just thought I'd mention it.

Oh and we've tried running it with another car + battery so it should've had plenty of juice to start.

Cheers,

J

I'll try WOT start when I clean the plugs again.

Fuels only a coupla days old now was pretty much empty when we put the engine in, so put some new stuff in, but it did start and run for a coupla hours on the original fuel before that. Filter and lines appear clear, and it pumps thru fine when we disconnected the rail.

Tried the WOT start, no go. Tried to fire twice as usual then flooded the plugs.

We took out all the plugs and coils grounded em and rotated the CAS manually, it's weird 1 and 6 spark strongest the other's spark occasionally. Possibly the coil harness but a bit strange as it idled fine for a coupla hours when we were setting and testing it.

Thanks for the suggestions sofar. Any other ideas?

Edited by mojave15

Yeh, we held it, it doesn't get to the coughing fit tho. Just spins sounds like it's trying to ignite twice and then floods the plug.

Would anything else have an effect on the spark other than the ignitor. We rotated the CAS manually you can hear the injectors clicking open normally, but the sparks just seem really weak. Only 1 and 6 seem to spark with any consistency. Things doing my head in now.

Another post said something about a relay next to the ECU causing a similar prob. I can't find any other info on it tho.

have you mesured the voltage on the afm while cranking to make sure its not the afm besides cleaning it, because if its stuffed and mesuring like 3 or 4 volts then its going to be adding wayyy to much fuel to start

AFAIK you should still be able to run the car with the AFM's disconnected. We've tried that, I'll check the voltage tomorrow.

Tried a different coil harness today as well as measuring the fuel pressure. Sitting on 275kpa no restriction on the return line.

Guess I'm gonna have to recheck the timing, don't get how it jumped teeth still feels tensioned all fine. Everything was done up to factory specs. weirdest prob I've had yet.

Cheers,

  • 1 month later...

Gotta make sure you tension the belt correctly accross the section that goes from the crank back upto the top. Checking the other side is a false reading. Also you MUST wind the engine over at least 2 revolutions once you initially set the belt tension. Then recheck all marks and crack the tensioner bolt again and let it reset or make your own final adjustment.

I also think you are very lucky not to have bent any valves with 4 or 5 teeth skipped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...