Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There seems to be a lot of misleading info here and on the net.

Which is the right way to mount the oil cooler ? With lines going from the top or the bottom ?

Some say that when you mount the oil cooler upside down you will have hard time bleeding the system and there would be some air trapped in the oil coller ? Is this correct ?

And full race seem to have mount them upside down.

http://www.full-race.com/prototype/R14/alm.../drivside-2.jpg

http://www.full-race.com/r14/images/photos/_H0J9567.jpg

Lets discuss !

My lines are at the bottom. Never had a problem, and on teardown of engine bearing shells were in good nick(70,000k and 400hp + atw) with oil cooler installed.

I've mounted mine on its side. Oil into the top fitting and out the bottom.

It also makes for easier draining of the cooler on oil changes

Same setup although I'm not 100% on the IN and OUT positions (i.e. top or bottom) don't think it matters considering the oil pressure, not like gravity will stop it.

my in and out are on the bottom.

No issue.

as stan said, with 4 bar plus oil pressure gravity doesn't stand a chance.

But! i'd have thought more people would be concerned with maintaining oil in the lines after the car is stopped to minimise the time it takes to build oil pressure on start up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This car has run before on this z32 ecu can get the part number for you, I have tried with no AFM it didn’t change anything, I compression tested today 140-150 across all 6 cylinders, also set fuel pressure to 43psi. The only weird thing was cylinder 1 plug was black and fouled other 5 cylinders were just wet with fuel. Spun cas by hand and confirmed injectors are clicking 
    • Since you came here to ask for help, have you thought about answering our questions, that might help us lead you to why it was skipping, or have you given up on getting advice?
    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
×
×
  • Create New...