Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SO many variables. Believe it or not other cars have had a much harsher life than others.

Correct........you take 2 cars with identical mods yet one has a fresh motor while the other is lacking compression with crappy plugs and I guarantee a difference of at least 20 or 30kw.

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

How much effect does the ramp rate have on the over all figure. it would be the same difference as doing the run in a lower gear because that is effectively what you are doing by altering the load. I.e. there wouldn't be 10% difference in a 200kw car due to RR more like 2 or 3.

Also this engine had extremely good compression, i posted the figures up in the wasteland when i did the test because I wasn't sure what the range factory range was, but they were all around 169 mark with very little difference between them

Edited by D_Stirls
Actually sorry steve have to jump in here noone's actually said he didn't make the reading there just questioning the equipment they used to get the reading!

comprehension i never once said he didnt make that figure just what were the dyno settings was what i was implying

remember people its just a number.

yeah but to some it seems figures are more important than where their car is at!

i only pulled 185kw with a pfc (got a restricting exhaust) but some how i still manage to be right next to my mates skylines even though they have more power! as long as i feel the result i'm happy

The more power the car has the more dramatic the power difference is going to be when you vary to ramp rate. Ovrtym33's R33 made 325roundaboutrwkw on moderatly high ramp rate which was around 270 i think. Due to the fact we had to dial out alot of wheel spin on the dyno. On a more modest / realistic ramp rate the car would probably make around 340-350rwkw....however the same ramp rate differences on a 200rwkw R33 would be around 10rwkw difference. not too much but enought to make a customer drive out happier lol.

well the car was actually on the dyno to find an ignition fault which turned out to be the No. 2 coil pack. The figure was just a bonus, i told Zac that he wouldn't make 200 until they played with the SAFC but you never know, that's the thing with playing cars.

He's now giving me shit about how much effort i put into my CA to get 16 kw more :) . But I'm only a decent actuator away from 235.

Edited by D_Stirls

Yep, but that's what you get when you try and 18 psi through a 9 psi actuator.

I only put 2mm of preload on it though so I might try a little bit more and see if that works but i suspect it'll just make it spike higher and then drop to the same point. I'll by a 13.8psi actuator and bring that along when it goes on the dyno next.

Edited by D_Stirls

hey im in the same boat, took my car to turbo tune bout 6months back, i hav a fmic, hks cat back, walbro 500hp pump, pod filter and running 11psi flat (earthed out solenoid). My car got a read out of 221.1rwkw. My engine is a bit weird tho you cant run the pod straight off the airflow meter cause my car will just flood up wen hitting boost. i need an extra bit of pipe on the end and then it runs sweet, turbo tune said they hav never encountered a problem like that

dynos are only good for tuning. and bragging rights :P my car made 235rwkw on tilbrooks dyno with standard ecu and turbo running 13 psi.

thats way too high..... since then the car has had a haltech e11v2 installed at boostworx and runs the same boost but made 197 rwkw on boostworx dyno :P .... that being said the car is heaps more responsive and pulls heaps harder.....

dynos are only good for tuning. and bragging rights :P my car made 235rwkw on tilbrooks dyno with standard ecu and turbo running 13 psi.

thats way too high..... since then the car has had a haltech e11v2 installed at boostworx and runs the same boost but made 197 rwkw on boostworx dyno :P .... that being said the car is heaps more responsive and pulls heaps harder.....

Your right that is way to high but that's Tilbrooks dyno for you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...