Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

im currently building a rb26 out of a r32 it was rebuild 10000ks ago with forgies new standard oil pump ect.... but it still has the standard 32 crank? its got hks gtss im looking to make 400rwhp the car it only a street car should i get a 33 crank or leave it?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235725-r32-gtr-crank-replace-or-not/
Share on other sites

think about it u got the motor apart any way so you mine as well, like this guy at work rebuilt some kia sh*t box and re used some of the piston rings??? lol stupid aye, but yer do the crank since it is apart.

i left my crank... hks pistons, eagle rods, balanced bottom end... 9k isnt a problem for it.. but i replaced my balancer for an ATI one.. :laugh:

builder said my bottom will live beyond 9k without raising a sweat... its in the balance i reckon

just out of curiousity is anyone running the n1 pump without the collar? I didn't like the looks of the collars as you have to carve down the standard crank so it fits on then drill holes in the crank, which didn't sound like it'd do many favours to the crank strength >< the n1 pumps fit onto the standard 32 crank, just not fully on (like about 2/3rds of the way on)

Edited by GTAAAH
just out of curiousity is anyone running the n1 pump without the collar? I didn't like the looks of the collars as you have to carve down the standard crank so it fits on then drill holes in the crank, which didn't sound like it'd do many favours to the crank strength >< the n1 pumps fit onto the standard 32 crank, just not fully on (like about 2/3rds of the way on)

Stongly suggest not to do that, the inner gear will crack over time, not enough engagement on the crank. There are pics on what happens to the oil pump gear.

Can't see why a stock r32 pump wouldn't fit on. Wouldn't it drive all of the pump with an r33 crank?

oh really? i've seen them crack under stress and that sort with the collar kits as well :S Will have to make a decision eventually, builds being done atm (very slowly), but at least the n1 pumps will take more flack before letting go than the standard ones will, either way i spose

sum1 told me that the standard oil pump sits on about as much as the n1 would anyway? can sum1 confirm

Edited by GTAAAH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...