Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, Im from belco and i need my car resprayed, like a candy apple red. i dont need or want the engine bay, but just the stuff u can see like doors, skirts, boot, roof, bonnet.

any places would be good and prices, willing to spend like 2k or less lol.

Cheers

John.

Edited by John-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236632-spray-painters/
Share on other sites

Phone Adam Hickey on 0418 630 813 - He has access to some awesome paints - He did that amazing purple fleck on black on my race car... I get asked about it all the time. He can do panel beating/painting and will do a special cash price. Have a look at some of his work, then decide.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236632-spray-painters/#findComment-4141716
Share on other sites

It'll look like ass for 2k. If you want a good job, apparently the place to go is Tony Farrugia and I think double your budget.

LOL and the rest. Tony Farrugia won't (or rarely) touch old cars. He's like the only authorised repairer for cars like Mercs, Beemas, Audis etc and that's what they prefer to be working on.

As an indication on their price, to repair a pin dent and tiny paint chip on our S3 it's going to cost somewhere around $1700 and that's for repainting the front 1/4 panel and the driver's door.

I'm going to get mine done at Capital Collision in November and I'm looking somewhere around the $6k mark but keeping in mind my body is very straight and I'm not doing a colour change. Engine bay is being done (kept at basic black) and that's because the engine will already be out.

But yeah keep in mind you pay for what you get. For $2k or less you'll be lucky if it looks like ass and be prepared to get it done again in the not too distant future.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236632-spray-painters/#findComment-4141857
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...