Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Unfortunately on my R33 GTS4 there is some rust on the brake calipers and the wheel stud (bit between the rim and the brakes). Didn't notice it before i got a set of nice 17" rims.. :)

The R33 GTS4 has smaller brakes than the GTST, without the NISSAN writing on them.

What I want to do is clean them up, get rid of the rust, and give them a nice coat of paint.

I was thinking of using a wire brush to get rid of all the excess, paint them with some rust treatment paint, then give them a coat of high temperature tolerant paint, probably black.

Has anyone else had to do this? Any tips or things I should consider before doing this?

Thanks a lot,

Chicane

:Pimp:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23721-rust-on-brake-calipers/
Share on other sites

I do but not very good pics and none with the wheel off showing both the caliper and rotor (yet).

These will have to do for now...

http://skylines.pnc.com.au/pics/padchange/caliper1.jpg

http://skylines.pnc.com.au/pics/padchange/caliper2.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Here are some pix of what im talking bout.. anyone (specially R33 GTS/GTS4 owners) had this problem at all?

Found this Painting Calipers how-to - I'll probably do it in a similar way to that.. with a few more steps to get them looking good.. I'll probably do it after I get new pads put in / machining shortly.

Cheers,

:Pimp: cHiCaNe :burnout:

they look like single spot brakes! totally different design than the GTST-, oh well, yeah just hit them with rust convertor, clean them up with degreaser and thinners, then paint them up! just be careful as heat proof paint needs to get hot the set properly, so you'll need to be careful when putting the wheels back on etc, then take her for a blast to heat up the calipers then let em cool off.... all done :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...