Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In this particular situation, the customer, unfortunately.

With the agents I normally use, if something like this happened (and in the many hundreds of cars I've imported, I can count on one hand the number of times it has) they would usually give me credit in Japan and I would then reimburse the customer.

Because this particular company hasn't dealt with me before, they may decide it's cheaper just to burn us off, rather than help out. I've already sent them an email so I'll wait for their response.

Edited by Iron Chef

i fail to see why the customer should be left to foot the bill for rust repairs it wasent his fault the wrong car was sent . i understand you as his agent was duped as well but i reckon your still getting your fee and maybe some of that should go to helping the guy out so the car is of a standed he paid for and was expecting .

i would be pretty pissed it my agent said here it is so sorry its not the car that you wanted but your up for the repairs

there is no way i would be accepting a sub standed car regardless of who duped who

Dean, in the end, my job is to import the car, not to sell it.

In the case of this car, because it was from a company I'd never dealt with before, I actually made a point of going to visit the exporter's yard when I was in Japan, and didn't have any luck finding it, wasting a couple of hours in Japan in the process.

In the end, I had to meet with their buyer at auction, who in broken English, told me about their company and about the car, and seemed quite genuine about it (it's very difficult to get auction access in Japan, and his ID was in the company name). I actually went to a fair deal of effort to make sure the car and the company existed because this specific car was the one that the Jenkk really wanted to buy, and even though I probably could've bought something similar at auction (and am now regretting I didn't, to be honest), I was keen to make sure he got the car he desired.

Given the amount of effort (and money) I spent trying to check the bona fides of the company, I hope you can understand why I'm also pretty pissed off about the situation.

If I have made a mistake whilst importing a car that has cost the customer money (scary to believe I make mistakes, but yes it does happen...lol) then I'm very quick to chip in to cover any extra costs I have incurred, even if those costs amount to more than my broker's fee. I don't think it's fair on me to have to pay for this mistakes of others too though.

In this situation, the blame lies fairly and squarely with the agent in Japan - where I use my normal agents to buy a car, I can use the threat of pulling my business from them to leverage a bit of cash for the customer, but like I've already said, I'm not very confident that I can do the same with this agent. It hasn't stopped me having a crack at it though. :D

I'm still in discussions with Jenkk about all this, so I'll see how he feels about the situation before posting any more on here.

This is why some people opt out of importing and just cruise on down to their local Import Car Dealer to purchase a car, as they don't want to go through the hassle, or wait a few weeks/months.

Importing has alot of catches to it (car can get damaged on the ship, parts can go missing, compliance can go wrong, you're judging the quality by pictures and reports, you can't test drive the car, etc etc etc)

It's all risks that the customer takes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...