Jump to content
SAU Community

Pod v's Stock Air Box Temperature Results


Recommended Posts

Originally posted by rb25

I've done tests with a pod filter and partition with the stock air duct feeding into the partitioned space. I'll post results like Robo's did:

1) the temps stablise at 60+ even in heavy traffic (not 100)

2) pod does get warmer by 5deg when you slow down a bit. but cools down again, as long as your over 60km/h

3) POD's temperature rises straight away at the traffic lights by a massive 25deg. on idle for 3 minutes, not 5deg. it took 7 minutes of driving at 70km/h to lose the heat soak.

5) travelling on the freeway with 2 quick bursts in 3rd, saw the pod drop by 3deg., not rise 5deg. Driving on full boost saw the pod actually drop in temp.

I think the important test is plenum and intercooler temps (actual intake temps), not pod temp.

This was done on stock boost, stock intercooler, 3" turbo back exhaust. (R33)

-rb25

1) The slower i went the warmer i would get.

3) Mine rose by 5 degrees at a traffic light for approx 30 seconds only, not 3 minutes.

5)My temp was stable at 17 deg. I booted it for 2 short bursts and then i looked down and it was on 22 degrees when i went back to cruising.

I noticed when booting it with stock air box, the temp would come down quickly as it sucks the air thru.

Originally posted by rs73

I'd love to see how pod performs on dyno with bonnet close.

Most cars when dyno-ed they have their bonnets up, I know u need to run a pressure sensor from dyno to the engine, but will tuning be more street accurate with bonnet just down? Even if the bonnet not fastened, just lying shut.

Exactly, on a dyno with the bonnet open would be totally different from the open road. Honestly though, you have a look around the air pod, there is no real big holes to let cold air thru.

The biggest one i found, was a 1.5 inch just behind the headlight which i was able to get another small duct to join up with the stock air box, looks good too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...