Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Im just wondering if anyone here has got or heard off the following mod's . And if so is the performance alot different to the standard .

Thanks in advance for any help.

http://translate.google.com.au/translate?h...l%3Den%26sa%3DG

plus FUJITSUBO exhaust system .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238943-v35-increased-performace/
Share on other sites

best to check out the v-series skyline section. a large portion of the stuff here is more RB related than VQ.

however any general induction and exhaustion mods will reap good gains as most cars come with restrictive systems from factory.

best to check out the v-series skyline section. a large portion of the stuff here is more RB related than VQ.

however any general induction and exhaustion mods will reap good gains as most cars come with restrictive systems from factory.

Thanks for that , where is the v-skyline section ??

I believe the standard exhaust system for the VQ engined cars is pretty good from factory, limiting gains for aftermarket parts.

No there not very good at all, exhaust and headers will see good gains.

On the induction side of things all the jap tuners seem to stick with the factory airbox, panel filter and a 350z intake tube, where as the yanks all swear by the JWT pop charger (pod air filter with cold partition.

Personally i think mine went a little better with it on.. ill hopefully be doing a back to back dyno on tuesday should be interesting.

A computer or unichip with a good tune will also see good gains.

  • 2 weeks later...
No there not very good at all, exhaust and headers will see good gains.

I saw some pretty good gains with my catback on the Z33 just by itself, equal to when I did the extractors and cats and had my Unichip retuned to suit. The catback was a lot cheaper to do, though.

On the induction side of things all the jap tuners seem to stick with the factory airbox, panel filter and a 350z intake tube, where as the yanks all swear by the JWT pop charger (pod air filter with cold partition.

The Popcharger is great for noise, but does sweet FA for power from what I could feel. You're better off with just a drop-in K&N filter, performance-wise.

Hey alan,

Just had mine on the dyno again with the pop charger on this time and a different exhaust and im 10kw's down across the board. The exhaust change went from cannons to tri-flows at the rear the rest remained the same, headers to 2 1/2" pipe, highflow cats and x pipe. Might look into a brand name exhaust down the track, i still hate the exhaust note currently, it sounds like a bloody honda... and i would like that 10kw's back...

Fark, that sucks. I'd want that power back too - its not like we started with that much.

I heard a Fuji catback on mxfly's Z33, and I really like that note it made. It had a distinct turbine-like sound to it, kind of like Holden V8s do. It sounded really good.

I don't know what he was running north of the catback, since the car was being returned to stock for sale, but it wasn't particularly loud either.

Hey guys, I THOUGHT I WOULD POST THIS UP.... im still under the cloud wether to go f/i or keep the vq as a N/A breathing machine...

After hours on the net browsing different options, ive come past this, its still preety new in the states and not many guys have done it yet.....

The main problem they are finding is that this set up genreates alot of heat -though a simple custom airbox could do the trick like the one below found in on an alfa(pictured below)...... i know F/I is the easiest way to get horsepower... though the N/A sound is one that i cant just let go of.. especially after i get these tomei headers...

post-55721-1224394574_thumb.jpg

post-55721-1224394580_thumb.jpg

post-55721-1224394588_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...