Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To everyone with the rain marks that seem to be permanently stuck on the windows, I have found the fix :down:

Just use Autosol Metal Polish, a cloth, and lots of hard work, its that simple.

Just make sure you apply a fair amount of pressure when rubbing the compound in, you may have to apply it twice to get any little bits you might have missed, and hey presto, new windows!

Hi Robbo05,

I bought it from my local Supercheap Auto so I could get rid of the staining on the chrome parts. It worked perfectly on the chrome as I expected, but that got me thinking that maybe the staining was on the surface of the glass, not acid rain that had eaten into the glass as was suggested by some people.

Me being the type that likes to experiment with things, I tried it on the glass in an inconspicuous area and was ecstatic to find that it actually works. :happy: Because I was seriously starting to consider buying replacement glass, haha.

Like I said though, rub with a decent amount of pressure and concentrate on one small area at a time. Rubbing up and down works best as opposed to a swirling motion.

There may be an easier way to rub it off, like with one of those electric orbital polishers, but I don't have one of those and I'm happy to just keep chipping away at it myself.

Last night I also used it to clean the yellowing off my headlights, haha, seems like it polishes more than just metal :)

If you have any other questions let me know.

Theres no need to worry about how hard you push, the Autosol compound does not eat glass.

And it doesn't work 'fairly well', it works, full stop.

That's good, I was mearly mentioning that Autosol is an abrasive type of product. Would hate to see someone forget that...

That's good, I was mearly mentioning that Autosol is an abrasive type of product. Would hate to see someone forget that...

Can confirm that this works a treat. Just did the chrome around the door windows and then the rear window. Took about 15 minutes and my arm feels it so I'll do the rest later. :)

Used Maquires window cleaner to clean off the polish residue. Perfect!! :P:happy:

tried it today. Didn't really work that well for me. The stains are slightly less obvious but still very visible. Applied half a dozen times per window,used up approx 1/4 of a brand new tube of autosol. Maybe my stains are particularly tougher...

Anyone else have success?

Hey N15M0,

I'd be happy to show you in person if its convenient, let me know.

Whereabouts in Brissie are you in? I'm on the Southside,Runcorn. That would be great maybe on the weekend or something. Maybe get Robbo05 (mark) to come along to so we can have a stain removal session lol.

I live northside so would be willing to meet you halfway on the weekend. However, before we get to that stage, lets make sure you guys are doing it right :down:

Using a dollop about the size of a 5 cent piece and a rough textured cloth, rub in an up and down motion, no swirls, using your index and middle finger with pretty much your whole weight against it. Takes about 20 seconds of rubbing in a spot about 15cm high by 3cm wide to see the results. Its not an easy thing to do, thats for sure.

The user Clikar23 was successful and if you ask him, I bet he tells you his arm is sore after doing just one window, so if yours isn't then you are definitely not doing it right, haha

Give that a shot and let me know how it pans out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...