Jump to content
SAU Community

Oxidation

Robbo_05
 Share

Recommended Posts

smoothV35 Explorer

smoothV35

Posted
Posted

To everyone with the rain marks that seem to be permanently stuck on the windows, I have found the fix :down:

Just use Autosol Metal Polish, a cloth, and lots of hard work, its that simple.

Just make sure you apply a fair amount of pressure when rubbing the compound in, you may have to apply it twice to get any little bits you might have missed, and hey presto, new windows!

smoothV35 Explorer

smoothV35

Posted
Posted

Hi Robbo05,

I bought it from my local Supercheap Auto so I could get rid of the staining on the chrome parts. It worked perfectly on the chrome as I expected, but that got me thinking that maybe the staining was on the surface of the glass, not acid rain that had eaten into the glass as was suggested by some people.

Me being the type that likes to experiment with things, I tried it on the glass in an inconspicuous area and was ecstatic to find that it actually works. :happy: Because I was seriously starting to consider buying replacement glass, haha.

Like I said though, rub with a decent amount of pressure and concentrate on one small area at a time. Rubbing up and down works best as opposed to a swirling motion.

There may be an easier way to rub it off, like with one of those electric orbital polishers, but I don't have one of those and I'm happy to just keep chipping away at it myself.

Last night I also used it to clean the yellowing off my headlights, haha, seems like it polishes more than just metal :)

If you have any other questions let me know.

Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
Posted
Theres no need to worry about how hard you push, the Autosol compound does not eat glass.

And it doesn't work 'fairly well', it works, full stop.

That's good, I was mearly mentioning that Autosol is an abrasive type of product. Would hate to see someone forget that...

Clikar23 Apprentice

Clikar23

Posted
Posted
That's good, I was mearly mentioning that Autosol is an abrasive type of product. Would hate to see someone forget that...

Can confirm that this works a treat. Just did the chrome around the door windows and then the rear window. Took about 15 minutes and my arm feels it so I'll do the rest later. :)

Used Maquires window cleaner to clean off the polish residue. Perfect!! :P:happy:

n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

tried it today. Didn't really work that well for me. The stains are slightly less obvious but still very visible. Applied half a dozen times per window,used up approx 1/4 of a brand new tube of autosol. Maybe my stains are particularly tougher...

Anyone else have success?

n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted
Hey N15M0,

I'd be happy to show you in person if its convenient, let me know.

Whereabouts in Brissie are you in? I'm on the Southside,Runcorn. That would be great maybe on the weekend or something. Maybe get Robbo05 (mark) to come along to so we can have a stain removal session lol.

smoothV35 Explorer

smoothV35

Posted
Posted

I live northside so would be willing to meet you halfway on the weekend. However, before we get to that stage, lets make sure you guys are doing it right :down:

Using a dollop about the size of a 5 cent piece and a rough textured cloth, rub in an up and down motion, no swirls, using your index and middle finger with pretty much your whole weight against it. Takes about 20 seconds of rubbing in a spot about 15cm high by 3cm wide to see the results. Its not an easy thing to do, thats for sure.

The user Clikar23 was successful and if you ask him, I bet he tells you his arm is sore after doing just one window, so if yours isn't then you are definitely not doing it right, haha

Give that a shot and let me know how it pans out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...