a few questions 4 yall

[Mick]

Hey i have a few questions that i hope u all could help me with.

1 - I have Tein HR heigt adj suspension in my car and i also have a set of JIC height adj coilovers as a spare set. Which coilovers are better?

I might try post a pic of both so you can tell better.

2 - I put some Nulon Engine Oil Flush in my car today and started it and let her idle for about 20mins, turned car off and dumped the oil. Now im wondering if it would be worth removing and cleaning the sump? It looks like i just need to take the sway bar and the two auto trans brackets out to be able to remove it, is that right?

Also what is the liquid sealant used for the sump called?

3 - i have 2 exhaust manifold studs broken off, the two end ones (front and back) and there is carbon buildup from the gasket at both of these places, now it would be stupid of me to not to replace all of them at once but is it possible that i would need it machined before i put a new ex man gasket on ?

if so is it a job for the pros or could i do this with a block and sand paper ..

4 - When I went to remove the oil filter i remembered that i didnt have a filter wrench, anyways i used my thumb and index finger to grab the end of it and it turned ...**** ...

it was that loose and not a drop of oil leaking out of it ..

Is this normal? Also the filter was a Ryco Z442 which there catalog says is for a sr20det (and a few others) but none of them were an RB engine.. I brought the proper Z145a for it and there is a big difference in size... the 442 looked and fit perfect and the 145a looks big and bulky even thoe its the right one. Wonder if it would hurt to use a Z442 instead of Z145a.

5 - I found a leak that has been hissing at me for months and months finaly ...

It is the pcv gromet that goes into the cam cover ...Anyone know where i can buy a few of there from ?

Yeah I would not recommend Nulon Engine Oil Flush for people with heart conditions, epilepsy, high blood pressure or people who dont like to hear there car in SERVERE pain.

To put it mildly "I SHIT MYSELF" after puting the crap in wit the oil i started the car and it wasnt singing like she normaly does ... I would say that the best way to describe the noise it was making was "like someone smashing your cars internals with a large sledge hammer" this went on for a few mins and started to get quieter... but shit it was loud..

But i do admit it sounded all good b4 i turned it off to dump the oil .. So fingers crossed that no damage was done ... I got Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 to put in her as well as some new NGK Vgroove's (BCPR6E).

[wrxhoon]

i wouldnt use any nulon crap to flush my engine , if the oil is black changed more often . dont remove the sump just to clean it unlees its leaking leave it alone . any goon sealant will do the job but u have to clean the old one good first . if u want to use the one on it now u can buy it from nissan .

if the manifold is not leaking just use an easyout to pull the broken studs out and replace them only .( carefull not to drill to deep u 'll put a whole in the head ).

use z145a filter dont use the little one ( its ok for the sr20 cause not as much oil goes through it )

u can get any parts u want from nissan dealers ( dont know about country ones though )

shell ultra 5w-40 is good oil to use in the sky , change it every 5k k's and ur engine will stay clean , i use it in the gtr and when i do an oil change the oil is still very clean ( 4 k k's )

[Mick]

Yeah thanks for the info..

I think i'll leave the pan. But as for the ex man gasket and studs there definatly leaking cos there is all carbon crap there but only on the ones where there is broken studs .. i have strong fumes in the engine bay as well .. since i will need a new gasket what about machining, will i probably need to do it? cos i heard tat they warp a little sometimes ..

[wrxhoon]

if u r going put a new manifold gasket when u take the man out u can check for warping yourself .first u clean all the old gasket ,use a scraper to do it u can also use block and sandpaper . when its very clean u get a straight ruler and put it across lentgh ways and diagonaly across use a filler gauge to see how much its warped limit is .3mm if more than that u have to have it machined

when u replace the broken studs put some locktite on the threads that go in to the cil head and u'll need a torque rench to do them up .here is how u do them up :the first one u do is top of man 3rd from the front of car 2nd u do 3rd bottom ( always count from front of car ) 3rd to do up is 4th top , 4th is 4th bottom , 5th is 2nd top , 6th is 2nd bottom , 7th 5th bottom, 8th is 5th top , 9th 1st top , 10th1st bottom , 11th 6th top ( last one ) 12 6th bottom .by the way when u undo them u undo them the opposite ( start from 12th and work ur way to 1 . when instaling the studs make sure that the short threded side does in to the cil head here is how to install them . use 2 nuts on the long threaded side lock them together then screw them in to the cil head tighening torque 27-31 n-mt . once tight undo the 2 nuts then install u r gasket make sure u put it the right way then the manifold make sure u use the correct washers for the correct ports there is 2 sizes . port no 3 and 4 ex diameter is 22mm 1,2, 5 and 6 is 24 mm and make sure u face them the same way as they came out mark them if u have to .when u tighten the nuts do them 25 n-mt . if u have to remove the exhaust sensor make sure u dont damaged it ! ( i'm not sure if u have to remove it or maybe u can just disconect it , i u dont have to remove dont ).

[JimX]

I would advise against using any engine flush even if you've just gotten the car and don't know its past history. Just use a good quality full synth instead. This sort of oil will have a high amount of detergent in it anyway and help disolve crud inside your engine, but slowly over the service interval period, not all at once where big chunks of it can break off and clog up your small oil galleries.

I think on the most part engine flush is just asking for trouble. By the noises your engine made it may have done more harm than good

You can use any size oil filter that will fit, however it's usually better to go bigger rather than smaller. The size is designed for the sump capacity of your engine usually, and the bigger the filter, the more crap it will hold.

On my Commodore the factory filter was quite small, even though it was a 5L engine, but this was mainly because the next size up was a tighter squeeze. However, it did fit, so on all subsequent services I used the bigger size.

It's not normal for the oil filter to be able to be undone by 2 fingers, but if no oil was leaking then it was fine. Just do it up tightly by hand and you should be able to remove it by hand again.