Jump to content
SAU Community

Recently Had Timing Belt And Waterpump Changed Now Car Over Heated


Recommended Posts

hey guys yesterday i had a timing belt kit installed aswell as a waterpump by my mechanic on my r32 gtst.

now today while driving and being in heavy traffic coming home from city the car over heated. pulled over and got it to cool down and managed to tippy toe it back home.

now i called my mechanic and he said something about a air pocket in the radiator/pipes? don't really think it is though.

i've seen the radiator fluid in the over flow bottle and it seems alot lighter green then m,y last coolant. could this be the reason?

also when it started to overheat there was a ticking sound coming from the engine bay that i never heard before. is this normal when the car is overheated? or is it possible that my water pump is stuffed?

let me know if u've experienced this guys as i wanna get this fixed asap.

thanks

hmm...just found out the radiator is leaking and there was nothing in the radiator. :ninja:

filled up the radiator with water to check for the leak and the water just came straight out.

when ur under the bonnet the leak is coming from the right side of the radiator.

my dad thinks it might be the plug or might have a blown hose?

have no idea about these things so what do u guys think it is?...haven't really had a good look but i will tomorow.

if your looking AT the car and the leak is on your right (turbo side) then it wont be a hose, as the hoses are on your left... its possible that your mechanic didnt take the radiator out when doing the timing belt and bashed it with tools or the fan... theres not a great deal of room to move around in there... if its coming out of the radiator, you'll have to take your shroud off and check.

dont stress... i broke 2 radiator tubes after my shroud got pushed into the radiator.. i got a new radiator which didnt get along with the fan... so cashless and carless and in need of a quick fix to get it going... i fixed the old radiator with DEVCON... may not be the best idea, but its been holding solid for almost 3 weeks now. its basically an aluminium putty... when mixed with the hardner, sets like metal... i just put in bit more hardner and packed it in where the 2 tubes had broken.

i drive the car everyday and it hasnt got hot or leaked yet.

cheers

Linton

when you top the water up aswell.... make sure you undo the 10mm bolt staring at you on the end of the plenum.. run the car at operating temp, topping up with water until a solid stream of coolant comes out.. no air bubbles... this gets the air out of the system. and check the radiator for air bubbles... if its bubbling like crazy.. its dont the head gasket.. thats the worst case scenario though. if its just a bubble here and there, its just that, a bubble.

and dont put cold coolant in a hot car thats switched off... keep it running while your filling it up.

^^^ awesome mate will do...thanks heaps

so if i'm in the same boat as u it will be better to get a new/second hand radiator?

Edited by jakez88

ideally, yes, a new radiator would be good.. i got a second hand one for $220 and put it in, only to have the waterpump shaft snap and throw the fan into the "new" radiator... so i had to quickly fix the old one to get me around.. next on the list is a new radiator.

oh o.k fair enough...i can get a hold of a second hand gtr r32 radiator....does anyone know if the gtst and gtr are the same? i hard they are but the gtr is abit thicker? if this is the case will it fit with the gtst fan thing and everything?

should be pretty much the same, aslong as the hoses are both on the left.. just check where the little sender is, you may have to add in some wiring.. r32s it is near the bottom hose, r33 is on the other side..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
    • Not yet quite as bad as what we've seen a Jim Berry clutch do in an R32 GTR though when it decided to cut a chassis rail in half... Still very very gnarly and a great reason to avoid.
×
×
  • Create New...