Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car: '97 (JZX100) Toyota Chaser Tourer V

Colour Dark Green/Black (looks black in most light)

Engine: 1JZ GTE VVTi single turbo

Gearbox: 4Sp Auto

Price: $16600

I am the first Australian owner of this car which was bought as a grade 4B (very good condition) car from the auctions in Japan. It already had a new timing belt, the 3 piece, 17" Intelesse wheels, Rs*R lowered suspension, air filter, 3" stainless exhaust, and Dvd/Vcd player, and TRD front grille fitted.

Since purchase, I have fitted smoked front indicators, a full Trust Spec-M intercooler kit, Torsen LSD, 3" downpipe, and an Apexi Power FC ECU.

The car has been modified for economy (leaving plenty of potential for further performance from the current setup, and other mods, if desired), and after fitment of the above parts, gained both power (now 265HP at the wheels), and economy (gained about 100km per tank). It has been fastidiously maintained, and perfectly reliable. One of the best presented, sensibly modied Chasers in the country: mature enthusiast owner means all work has been carried out by professionals, and no corners cut.

Any enquiries, please either call me 0413003013, or email: [email protected]

Cheers,

Micah

post-39451-1225172557_thumb.jpgpost-39451-1225172581_thumb.jpg

post-39451-1225172609_thumb.jpg

post-39451-1225172637_thumb.jpgpost-39451-1225172659_thumb.jpg

swap for silvia plus cash ur way

link.... click here

kyle

Thanks for the offer, but I have another car already in compliance, so am looking for an outright sale.

Good luck with the sale!

Micah

Manual conversion would be around $5500-$6k if you paid to have all work done....assuming you could find a decent R154 Gearbox. That said, a Manual in the same condition as mine should have about a $8k premium, so I guess it would be a cost-effective exercise, if you look at it that way...

The cheaper option would be to get MV automatics to shift-kit the auto, and strengthen it, then retune the transmission and engine for better performance with the Power FC, and have a rip-snorting auto for very little outlay.

I know there's no substitute for 3 pedals, but auto suits these cars, IMO....

Thanks for the comments and free bump!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was that with the cas upside or correct way up?
    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
×
×
  • Create New...