Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i love that popup screen! dont get many cars factory fitted with something like that specially japs...

ive hooked up a dvd player on mine and it works perfectly

and its so simple to do it only took an audio/electrical noob like me 20mins to get it working :D

Hi i wondered what dvd u used to hook up the factory screen? and where u put tat new dvd player? is the pop up mechanism working properly? any pic would be appreciated!! i need one dvd player for my screen too~

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

looks like it would work. hint: look in your boot passenger side rear corner. that will make things easier :)

KV2,

if you can find it toss it my direction. I've taken to fixing these things as some aren't too bad (cost wise) on parts.

Best hint ever, works a charm thank you so much!

BTW you don't know the ground wire to keep video running when driving by any chance?

  • 3 weeks later...

Just got my 34 and same thing, the cd player unit lights up, won't let me put a disk in there [ though i think maybe someone has left one in there before compliance did whatever it was they did ] because when i go to put a disk in, it sounds like a spinning disk is scratching it once it goes in a little bit, also my screen doesn't move at all some audio guy had a look and checked to see if it was getting power and it was just couldnt get it to work, any ideas?

or better yet does anyone know when these are imported what they do to disable the screen altogether?

i also have this little button that is under my steering wheel centre console side says TV on it, i press the button and it lights up, though still get no response from cd unit or screen.

Just got my 34 and same thing, the cd player unit lights up, won't let me put a disk in there [ though i think maybe someone has left one in there before compliance did whatever it was they did ] because when i go to put a disk in, it sounds like a spinning disk is scratching it once it goes in a little bit, also my screen doesn't move at all some audio guy had a look and checked to see if it was getting power and it was just couldnt get it to work, any ideas?

or better yet does anyone know when these are imported what they do to disable the screen altogether?

i also have this little button that is under my steering wheel centre console side says TV on it, i press the button and it lights up, though still get no response from cd unit or screen.

-----------------------

difficult to comment without seeing the car but here goes -

1 if there is a cd already in the Xanavi HU you just hit eject and it should come out - the whirring sound you mention is most likely the small fan at the inside back of the radio/cassette player (not the Xanavi HU) and if you listen carefully it runs whenever ignition is turned on - its unlikely a cd is in there already! even when the HU play up its generally that they accept the cd but wont read it - your HU internals seem either totally dead or you have a stuck cd player mechanism (just as bad!)

don't even think about dismantling the HU yourself and there is basically no-one other than Mr Rogers who offers a repair service - forget about anyone in Sydney

at a guess, the button you refer to is probably an after market by-pass switch put in by original owner to watch TV while driving (which the HU does not normally allow) - post up a pic if you can

2 generally when the HU does not work the screen doesn't either as the former controls the latter - these systems are not disabled by a Compliancer - many just don't work probably because the internal circuitry and sensors are fried or whatever

3 if your keen to learn more then research/read all the threads and posts about the Xanavi HU on SAU - there are lots - and you will see what options are available

4 your best last desperation resort is try another identical Xanavi HU in the car to see if it works - g/l finding one that works

awesome ive been searching "R34 pop up screen" and i dont think im getting the right threads will use Xanavi HU from now on for more info.... ill get some pictures shortly.

the only part that lights up is the side closest to the driver, i push eject nothing happens.

thanks again for the info.

1 well the next wild card suggestion is related to only half the HU lighting up - a very odd siyuation - from experience I can tell you that like many brands of car stereos etc the plastic fascia with the controls is attached to the body of the HU and is removable (if your game that is ) - it has pressure contacts and some small circuit boards etc - and just maybe you have some problem related to the buttons/contacts on the fascia not working properly

a long shot but is desperation anything may be worth a try

------------------------------

2 also have you actually disassembled the whole unit from the dash and checked that all connectors at the back of the HU are actually connected - its not that hard a job and you can actually almost pull the whole unit out and turn it around before undoing and checking the connectors as the leads are all more than long enough - pulling it out completely takes about 3 minutes, the screen a little longer

they are each only 'one fit' so there is no way you can mix em up even if you pull the unit out completely and refit it

  • 2 weeks later...
1 well the next wild card suggestion is related to only half the HU lighting up - a very odd siyuation - from experience I can tell you that like many brands of car stereos etc the plastic fascia with the controls is attached to the body of the HU and is removable (if your game that is ) - it has pressure contacts and some small circuit boards etc - and just maybe you have some problem related to the buttons/contacts on the fascia not working properly

a long shot but is desperation anything may be worth a try

------------------------------

2 also have you actually disassembled the whole unit from the dash and checked that all connectors at the back of the HU are actually connected - its not that hard a job and you can actually almost pull the whole unit out and turn it around before undoing and checking the connectors as the leads are all more than long enough - pulling it out completely takes about 3 minutes, the screen a little longer

they are each only 'one fit' so there is no way you can mix em up even if you pull the unit out completely and refit it

may give option 2 a go sometime soon, ive only had the car a month, never had any car as nice as this and dont wanna mess anything up, but if its all one fit, shouldnt be too much of a problem right. :D

just put those led's from dan666 into the dash the other day and that went well, so i guess this is next. hopefully thats the problem.

okay pulled it all out this afternoon EASY, looking at all the cables everywhere HARD lol, okay had a look at everything pulled all the cables in the back out and replugged them in to make sure they were in correctly, still nothing, tried using the bypass on to operate anything still nothing, i have found 1 plug that was covered in electrical tape though looking at the plugs i couldn't really match it to anything. i took some photos off the cables around and some of the TV bypass thingy to see if anyone can make anything out of it.

Oh and i tried unplugging the bypass and plug it straight into the HU, but then i lost all radio stations and still nothing from the screen. so looking on the bad side in getting it working.

post-47444-1246348856_thumb.jpg

post-47444-1246348890_thumb.jpg

post-47444-1246348944_thumb.jpg

post-47444-1246349015_thumb.jpg

post-47444-1246349094_thumb.jpg

you have the same model ccu-3710v as I have - but yours has been fitted with the after-market RSPEC TV controller and the wiring altered accordingly

surprised that it affects you radio audio

as per my original post the least cost best option may be to start looking for a cheap second hand Xanavi HU that works and just replace the existing unit

in the last picture is a white set of connectors connected well if i disconnect that my radio goes back to static, i had a small square type thing installed the other week which shifts the FM bands or something which allowed me to get radio, i should have looked while i was there, the last picture has all those black wires and they go to the Rspec cables in that white connector you see, im thinking maybe the guy tapped into them ( i dont know much about electrics, but i know that as soon as i unplug that my radio doesnt work) when i plug the connector in without the rspec connector it still doesnt work.

i can pull it apart again if you need some pore pictures of something.

what are the odds of getting a second hand Xanavi HU that works?

Mines f**ked aswell, it comes up with that aqua/blue screen with the two boxes one yellow the other white with Japanese in it. I half translated one box, the first word is Program (thanks highschool Japanese). I'd love to get it fixed as it always opened when the ignition is turned on and none of the buttons work while its like this, however sometimes it beeps and then goes back to the normal NISSAN screen with the grey background and works for a little bit, then just goes back to that blue screen.

If I can't find anyone to fix it or point me in the right direction and i'll try fix it myself I'm gonna rip the bugger out and put the GTT tachos in there.

Once the screen is at this stage can it be fixed at all?

Edited by Jack-
Would anyone know of a way to check the stock LCD screen to see if it's working, it's currently been fitted with a pioneer deck, i dont have the stock deck to place it back in. If there someone i can take it to in sydney? :thumbsup:

We have the same error on my g/f's r34gt. I translated it to: Program Disk Swap Do Please, so yeah pretty much saying to swap for the program disk. We had the original map cd in there though, not sure if they class that as the program disk

  • 3 weeks later...

for those with a bit of electronics behind them :laugh: and want to MANUALLY put the screen UP/DOWN do this.

pull the screen out from the dash.

pull the top off where the plugs go in

locate this IC (see attachment)

tack 2 wires onto these locations:

M+ (screen UP)

M- (Screen DOWN)

these are located JUST below the Vref pin. grounding either of them will result in the screen moving the desired direction and stopping on its limits.

getting video into a defunct screen ( you still need the navi for the data feed)

locate TV + / TV - on the board and feed a composite NTSC signal into it and USE THIS CIRCUIT to get sync

lm1881.gif

power it accordingly (suggest +9v as there is a supply there for that.)

enjoy :)

dont ask for help - if you do not understand what I posted DO NOT ATTEMPT IT!

post-2209-1248603627_thumb.jpg

  • 2 months later...

I've searched around the forum and found a lot of good info, but nothing exactly fitting to what I need.

I just bought an R34 that originally came with a Xanavi HU. But the dealer removed only the HU before selling it to me saying that it was already broken, and replaced it with a tray, essentially making it a cassette only vehicle. The screen is still there but not connected. Afterwards I bought a used Xanavi HU and put it in its spot, and all it does is beep. Goes like this: "beep.........beep beep". It does it every 10 mins or so. Seems like a error code. It does allow me to eject and insert a disc (upon which it does the beep sequence again). No other buttons do anything, and the screen never pops up. Also it lights up with the instrument cluster, but that is it.

Was I lucky enough to have two bricked HUs consecutively? Any ideas? :)

Also does anyone know what that one socket is, on the extreme right side on the rear of the HU? It is sort of copper, round and almost coaxial, and doesn't seem to have anything to plug into it. Some people's pics on the forums also show nothing plugging into it. I plugged in everything into the HU, except for whatever goes in this thing.

  • 4 weeks later...
Afterwards I bought a used Xanavi HU and put it in its spot, and all it does is beep. Goes like this: "beep.........beep beep". It does it every 10 mins or so. Seems like a error code. It does allow me to eject and insert a disc (upon which it does the beep sequence again). No other buttons do anything, and the screen never pops up. Also it lights up with the instrument cluster, but that is it.

I have this same problem, does anyone know what it is? Is the HU stuffed, or does it need some sort of initialization disc or something?

nope the Navi side of it is stuffed.

i have been having problems with mine also. Recently brought it and it wasnt working right.... sometimes it turned on and worked fine then without warning it would freeze and not do anything until i turned the car off. The screen pop up button didnt work etc etc. So last night i took the whole lot apart and spent 3hours going over the navi unit motherboard... resoldering and replacing parts then did the same on the tape deck, put it back together and hey presto so far touch wood it woring fine again. Scrren pops up when i want it to, the cd player works when i want it to. So next thing is to get a pc wired to it (fairly sure i can do it) then ill have guages displayed on it also :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...