Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’m looking at buying a R34 GT-T that has a pop-up TV and Sat Navigation mounted in the dash, and wanting to know if they can be configured to work in Australia. I have heard of converting NTSC to Pal in the TV’s, however a little worried about the Sat Navigation system. Anyone out there who has successfully converted the TV and Navigation system to work in Australia?

  • 2 weeks later...

I was gunna post the same question tonite but saw this post on the front page! :) [Long time reader, short time member :-)]

I have an R34 with the popup TV and took it to a car stereo place to find out if it is possible to hook up a dvd player and australian tv tuner to the screen, but they recon it cant be done.

I cant see why not... when ya playin a cd the deck says "aux"...so surely it would be as simple as plugin the stuff in through the auxilary input...it is after all just a TV screen?!?!?!

As for the sat nav, dont think there is even the slightest chance of gettin that workin over here!

But the screen is still useful (for toss factor)...when ya play a cd the tv screen shows the tracks numbers and stop/play/fwd/rwd buttons...and ya use the sat nav joystick to move between em!

Maybe the HKS "CAMP" stuff could be hooked up to the screen at least...since both are japanese???

http://www.takakaira.co.jp/asp/template.as...PQqMnNnikJlhoKj

I only discovered the popup screen when I was on my way home from pickin up the car... "Damn where are my gauges on the top of the dash!!! hmmm...wonder what this 'open/close' button does....coooooooooooooooooool" :-)

Speaking of cool things, bumped a switch on the drivers side arm rest and didn't notice that the mirrors automatically folded in and then went to use them and thought some b#@%$^d had knocked em off ........... decided I should read the manual ....... so that's what that switch does.

My r33 has sat nav and a TV. The navigation is CDROM based and its only in japanese. No conversion. No australian CD. I simply unplugged it and plugged in a car dvd player via RCA. Works awesome. Forget about the sat nav, it wont work without spending $$$$

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...