Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yea but im sure that rb30 was build to handle 30+Psi lol

Can front wheels and covers be swapped over like rear ones?

Yes they can but you will find it is a very expensive exercise! Rear housing from Garret from memory was $600+

And yes +1 to a .63 housing being way to small on a 3L it will choke up for sure IMHO it is a bit of a misfit size in the Garrett range...

The .82 is not too bad on a stock RB25 more suited to a built motor but it will be a good balance between not having to buy a new turbo when you get the 3L cause a .82 on a 3L is a response monstor :domokun: I personally have a 1.06 rear on my 3L and wouldnt have it any other way as it feds on the power so nicely. Also I might add mine is internal gate and am having no problems with boost control 7psi actuator and a Turbosmart T and holds dead on 15psi.

And is it definately internal gate?

hahaha

Thanks for the info guys, For now i think im going to wire the Internal Gate shut, Mod my manifold to house an external gate and still use the .63 rear. I like it at the moment how i can cruise around at the moment like everything is normal but flat foot it off the line in first and it doesn't break traction. If the .63 generates too much heat ill put an external gate rear .82 housing on the turbo and keep it that was until i wack it on a 3L.

Thanks for the Info.

Hey guy,

I think 'the mafia" did a gt30 with a .63 rear end. Search for his threads. I dunno if you're already onto it, but it makes for a good read.

Also, just something I would consider if I was in your shoes... Why don't you use the GT35 with a ext gate setup until you get your 3.0l

from what everyone on hear says, the ext gate spools the turbo quicker, and then you have an upgrade path. You may or may not want a .82 rear house when you 3.0l, but that's then, not now.

Yes they can but you will find it is a very expensive exercise! Rear housing from Garret from memory was $600+

And yes +1 to a .63 housing being way to small on a 3L it will choke up for sure IMHO it is a bit of a misfit size in the Garrett range...

The .82 is not too bad on a stock RB25 more suited to a built motor but it will be a good balance between not having to buy a new turbo when you get the 3L cause a .82 on a 3L is a response monstor :( I personally have a 1.06 rear on my 3L and wouldnt have it any other way as it feds on the power so nicely. Also I might add mine is internal gate and am having no problems with boost control 7psi actuator and a Turbosmart T and holds dead on 15psi.

hahaha

You have the XR6T version yeah? with the 0.50 front cover?

How does that affect compressor flow?

You have the XR6T version yeah? with the 0.50 front cover?

How does that affect compressor flow?

I do but also have a .7 cover

There is no noticeable difference between the .5 and .7 without changing the tune, might get some gains when it gets retuned though...

I have found that bigger turbo's with low boost make heaps of wastegate air. So if the gate is too small, and or the waste gate dump is to small, the issue comes where the gate cannot dump enough gas to stop the turbo from spooling up.

yea we figured that one out, going external gate so will resolve that...I was talking more of whether the .63 rear can flow enough through it to cope with the gt35 front cover and the volume of air its producing to not create too much heat.

If i were in your predicament, i would seriously consider selling it and buying a proper matched turbo. As you seem aware, a 3082 is behind the 8 ball, as teh ex wheel is too small to generate enough torque to accelerate the rotating mass quickly. And by using a .63 exhaust, it is partially alliviating that, but adding high backpressure to the equation. I would be fitting a .82 3076, as IMO it is the ideal turbo for an rb25 after 280-300rwkw. Even if you fit the rb30 (which i dont think you will need to)the same turbo can be used, and fry the tyres up to the legal speed limit with more response than you can poke a stick at. If you feel you must have more than 300rwkw, then bite the bullet and get a real gt35r, with a .82internal or you can get away with an external gate .63, but i believe on pump fuel the exhaust backpressure will limit the power to far less than the comp wheel is capable of making. We need something between a gt30 and gt35!

i find this topic interesting....

Just incase anyone cares...

my gt35 with .63 rear isn't as laggy as you'd originally expect.

3000rpm = 0.56bar 8psi

3500rpm = 0.82bar 12psi

4000rpm = 1.04bar 15psi

Once external gate is fitted should be fairly good.

Just hoping the .63 rear doesn't choke up the gt35 housing too much in the top end. For the conservative boost ill be using it shouldn't.

^^ thats fairly laggy IMO.

I had my GT30 .82 on by 4200rpm and was over 15psi and make more power than you will be able too :yucky:

500rpm to get that last 3psi once spooling is indicative of the large compressor side

after 4k the boost sky rockets but thats when i back off, yet to see what it does after that.

yea but at the end of the day, It's all about experimenting....gimme a break...i just spend 2k on this turbo, gotta stay positive hehe.

I'm not doin it to beat anyone else...doin if for my own thrills.

It's fairly laggy i know but off boost it drives great and doesn't break traction which is what i was after.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...