Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by R33man

I was recently quoted $4000 for supply and fit (including dyno tune) of a Power FC computer and boost controller.  Is this a good price or should i look elsewhere.  :)

:bahaha: can u say RIP OFF??

U can buy one new for $1400 with hand controller, to install takes about 10 mins if u know how to use a screw driver and socket set. Proper tune depending on mods you got about 2 hrs.

All up i think u are paying around $2300 more than u should.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-523164
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Ronin 09

look out guys, customs are getting smart. The last 2 packages from greenline i've received have been taxed, and they've somehow got the exact cost of the items as per greenline's site...

How much tax did u pay on the parts??

Customs must be reading the forums to now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-524328
Share on other sites

Originally posted by hungry6

mine is costing me a fair bit more to tunecause i'm looking for the every last horses in the motor , including the one hiding behing the trees.

One word : DETONATION.

If you try and extract evey last pony, as soon as the air temp changes, or you get a slightly off batch of fuel etc, your check engine light starts flashing away at you, ignore it and do a rebuild.

Its a real pain (talking from experience). If you go for a more conservative tune, it is more likely to give you a longer, hassell free life.

0.02

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-524718
Share on other sites

Steve...of course detonation and exhaust temp would be taken into consideration. In fact a lot time is usually spent tuning at the track (if the pockets are deep) where temp is hot and car is being pushed hard...would have thought you had done that with your car too.

P.S....why would you ignore the engine light flashing at you?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-525269
Share on other sites

4 Doorz, the post just set off alarm bells, so injecting a word of caution. Every last pony insights visions of max hp on a dyno - to me anyways. I had someone do a 'get every pony possible' tune, and it wasnt long before I took it somewhere else and got a retune.

I completely agree with you, WRT a good tune. My car doesnt get track tuned, but it does get a good workout on the street. And yes it does cost extra, but well worth it IMHO.

Check engine light - some people dont keep an eye on their check engine light, and usually pay the price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-525658
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...