Jump to content
SAU Community

approx cost to fit adjustable exhaust cam wheel?

Ronin 09

By Ronin 09,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest INASNT

Guest INASNT

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Ronin 09

Anyone had one fitted? What gains have you found? and how much would you expect it to cost?

cheers

I got a hks exhaust cam gear put on recently but with a whole bunch of other stuff so i couldnt tell u exactly how much ice charged me for it. Change your timing belt when u get it installed 2, if u already havent done so. We havent really played around with mine as yet because we are waiting for the new turb to go on. At the moment its set to -3 degrees i think.

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

(quick thread highjack)

SydneyKid - in your opinoin, is it worth while installing an adjustable exhaust cam gear when your still using the stock R33 GTS-t ECU ?

I think around -3 degrees is around the normal for the typical mods (boost/exhaust/FMIC). Does that sound right?

(/highjack off)

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, for RB20 & RB26 we do both, commonly 1 degree advanced on the inlet and 4 degrees retarded on the exhaust. On RB25's with VVT, we only do exhaust with around 4 degrees retarded timing. We use Jun pulleys.

We have been finding lately that the good aftermarket camshafts actually don't benefit much from adjusting the camshaft timing. They are pretty much perfect with their "standard" timing. So if you are looking at doing camshafts (highly recommended on RB25's) don't bother doing pulleys.

I always recommend changing the ECU very early in the modification trail. Normally..........

1. turbo back exhaust

2. Upgrade fuel pump (on GTST's but not GTR's)

3. Boost up

4. Pod filter, heat shield & CAI

5. ECU

6. FMIC (on GTST's but not GTR's)

6. Turbo upgrade

7. Pulleys or camshafts (on GTST's, both on GTR's)

As you can see, pulleys are a fair way down the list.

Hope that makes sense

rb20-calais Rising Star

rb20-calais

Posted
Posted

Sydneykid,

Should i spend $400 on the two pulleys? how much would appropriate cams on an rb20det with my setup cost? is it worth it?

Setup will include

RB20DET

Turbo Back Exaust

Custom plenum

PWR cooler

GTR injectors

Wolf 3d v4

Garrett GT28

Evan

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi rb20-calais, used HKS 264's go for around $700, they work a treat in RB20's. As to whether they are worth it, well that really depends on your target power and what you are going to use the car for.

What I always suggest is to pick a power target and then match the components to that target. It is no good having a 220 rwkw turbo with a 330 rwkw intercooler, with 250 rwkw camshafts, with 200 rwkw injectors and a 290 rwkw fuel pump being stangled by a 170 rwkw exhaust.

Hope that helps lead to a conclusion

rob77 Veteran

rob77

Posted
Posted

The problem I have had when modifying my car has been "at what point am I satisfied with the power". Its hard to know at what point, or hp, you will be satisfied with it as in the end you'll want more. And because you thought you'd be satisfied with the 320hp turbo, you'll find you will now have to sell it to buy the 450hp turbo, or the 550hp turbo and so it goes on. I'm not disagreeing with sydneykid, as I also believe you need to match as many parts to each other to get an overall excellent package, its just hard to know how much you want. I've got a turbo that will support 450-500hp, an intercooler that will support 500hp flow, but I find the turbo a little laggy and slow. I'm hoping with the new ecu and a HKS cam gear that will help the response. I may also look into the lightweight flywheel, lightweight pulleys (if anyone makes them) for better engine response and maybe some cams.

rob77 Veteran

rob77

Posted
Posted

Also given time you get used to the power and generally want more :) I think that the best policy should be buy products with enough headroom should you want to upgrade to more power. ie: if I want more power now I just run more boost :) but I have to put other supports in place for that; ie pistons, bigger injectors. etc

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi rob77, my answer was for an RB20DET in a Commondoor. An RB25DET in an R33 GTST is a totally different question.

Do you want to leave the internals of the engine standard or not!

If you do then answers are then very easy, everything needs to be set up for 450 bhp. Because that's the most you are going to reliably get out of an RB25DET with standard internals. So you use everything for that maximum, as you said if you don't want that much then turn the boost down. Simple.

If you want more than 450 bhp, then the question is again simple, how much money do you want to spend?

That's why RB engines are so great, there is enough information around to do whatever you want. You just have to ask the right questions.

Hope that clarifies

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

So back to the original question...

How much would it cost to have just the ex cam gear fitted and then set to -3 or -4 or whatever it is? (ie no dyno or ecu tuning).

No point getting an ex cam gear -yet- if its going to cost as much to get fitted as it will to buy it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...