Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

what about cam shafts...i hear thier are two types of lilke HKS ones...one for top end one for bottom end..is it true that u get a different exahust note? and how much power extra would you get on a mild mod setup. Would it make much diff? or would it make it worth while when high HP applications are in use...

Well Sydneykid comes up with the goods YET AGAIN!

What he says seems to gel with what I'm hearing.

Aftermarket cams be they HKS, Tomei, Jun etc. usually have everything dialed spot on.

Drop them in. Instant power in the middle.

But $200 - $300 sounds like a good deal for an alleged 10-15kW.

But like all timing improvements, it's more FEEL rather than numbers.

T.

Jay: D1Garage here in Adelaide.

Everyone- Cam gears are very easy to fit, do it urselves. I paid $70 for dyno time/tune. Found that -4 degress is pretty spot on so I wouldn't bother getting it done on the dyno. However every car is different, lets just say if -4 degress gives you a very noticable difference, leave it were it is! The difference to me is like how the car runs on a cold day compared to hot.

Sorry Benm, I dont know how much it would cost. Why not give it a go your self? Couldnt be more than a 1 hour job to fit? BOOSTD? so on standard mech rates around $50-$70. Its seems pretty common, with stock cams to set up R33 to -4deg exh side.

Rob77, it was a second hand one from Japan that James picked up when he was over there.

they also have a set of 2 second hand if anyone is chasing more. think they are asking around $150 for both.

I was looking at this as a way to gain earlier boosting, and more low/mid range, but was put off when I was quoted "5 hours tuning to get it right!!!" all up the workshop wanted $1100 fitted and supplied.

I left it for a later date

Ned

Hi Ned, 5 hours is about right if you change the cambelt at the same time, which is not such a bad idea if you have more than 50K on the current belt.

Even without changing the cambelt, but still changing 2 pulleys and tuning from scratch, 5 hours is again about right. But with the help of the guys on this forum you can cut that down. Tell them to start at 1 degree advanced on the inlet cam and 4 degrees retarded on the exhaust. Then add advance to the exhaust cam in 1 degree increments until you have stiffened up the midrange (I work in 500 rpm increments from 3,000 rpm to 5,500 rpm) but not gone below the max power you previously had (without adjustment).

Once you have done that then sneak some more ignition advance into it, it should take 2 or 3 more degrees before pinging. Then they may be able to take some fuel out of it, not much though. I don't go below 12 to 1 A/F ratio on the F & W lambda, that's a safe place to be. You shoud see may 10 to15 rwkw increase in the max power but sometimes as much as 25 rwkw in the midrange.

As you can see if you want a good full rpm tune, it does take time. If you just want max power at one rpm point to brag about, then that takes a lot less time.

Hope that helps.

Originally posted by RedLineGTR

Sydney kid what about cam shafts...would there be any point in using them in a mild tuning application....

wouldnt bother rob unless u r going bigger turbo, new head gasket to lower the compression and running lots of boost

Hi Sydneykid,

thanks for the detail. I guess I had the idea that there was a bit of a sweet spot that could be dialled in (the +2, -4 degrees I hear regularly), with maybe another hour of fine tuning. BUt obviously its more involved than that.

Since you mentioned that the AFR's will help here as well, I guess that means that it would be best to wait until you also get an Emanage / SAFC / PFC to really optimise it?

I was trying to chart my own route to better low/mid range by doing front pipes / cam gears, and leaving the exhaust and ecu stealth style.

Ned

i have an HKS cam gear for my exh for my RB25

got a quote on fitting it from tilbrooks, but unfortunately this includes water pump, fitting/labour etc, so im not sure on cost of gear fitting only, but all up they quoted me $450 and 5hrs to fit the pump and set up the gear.

to tune my power FC they quoted me $250, which seems cheap to me? i expected around the 400 mark. How much has an ecu tune cost the rest of you?

Originally posted by SLY33

to tune my power FC they quoted me $250, which seems cheap to me? i expected around the 400 mark.  How much has an ecu tune cost the rest of you?

It depends.

How long is the proverbial piece of string?

For me, the final dyno tune is just to cement AFR, Lambda etc.

The road tune should get 95% of the way there.

So I've been quoted 1 to 2 hours dyno time.

And that's an avg. $100 - $200.

If it was a PowerFC tune from baseline, we could be here for quite a while.

T.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...