Jump to content
SAU Community

Why Is My Hicas Light Turning On?

SN1P3R

By SN1P3R,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

SN1P3R Collaborator

SN1P3R

Posted
Posted

Hey guys n Chicks, Most Of you no my car, R33 s1, Anywhos, Whats the dealyoyo withthe hicas light coming on all the time? Only comes on when im doing between 80kms to 110kms - usualy on the FWY or on my way home on great northan hwy?? SHould i be freaking out?

Kels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245284-why-is-my-hicas-light-turning-on/
Share on other sites
NA_Goodness Grand Master

NA_Goodness

Posted
Posted

Mine did it a couple of times, apparently its nothing to be worried about. Happened to my dad a few times driving up and down the freeway on the way to work. However, I've been to your place a number of times now and my light hasnt come on in months.

R33_NICK Community Regular

R33_NICK

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi im new here is your wheel-alignment straight? cuz ma cars wheel alignment was out b4 with da steering wheel off-centre n ma hicas light came on(happened on da freeway as well) n when i put it on da nissan consult tester it says no neutral signal at watever degrees n after i had ma wheel-alignment done it never came on

Edited by R33_NICK
kermit Community Regular

kermit

Posted
Posted

hey sniper ( think you live round the corner from me ) . hicas light comes on to indicate that the hicas system has a fault and has been deactivated . on the r32 model i believe this could only happen after a certain distance of driving and above a certain speed . once the system is deactivated it stays as such until the motor is switched off .

so you have a fault . just rip it out , hicas is gay anyway

kermit 0422549050

32vspecII Mentor

32vspecII

Posted
Posted
Hey guys n Chicks, Most Of you no my car, R33 s1, Anywhos, Whats the dealyoyo withthe hicas light coming on all the time? Only comes on when im doing between 80kms to 110kms - usualy on the FWY or on my way home on great northan hwy?? SHould i be freaking out?

Kels

faulty steering wheel position sensor , steering wheel not centered correctly or no speed sensor input if you have an aftermarket steering wheel without a hicas compatible boss kit

it happens on the fwy because you have not moved your steering wheel in a while and there has been no steering input for the pre-determined amount of time to trigger the hicas error

very common search for more info if you need it

ix9 Grand Master

ix9

Posted
Posted
usualy on the FWY or on my way home on great northan hwy?? SHould i be freaking out?

just avoid the freeway or great northern highway and you'll be fine.

but in all seriousness this issue is regular and has been covered before. the forums are full of great information. it's there if you look for it :)

dan_the_man Grand Master

dan_the_man

Posted
Posted
Chances are its the aftermarket steering wheel problem, exact same thing happens to my 32 i just ignore it.

Failing that 100 dollars for a lock bar and you can sort the problem out.

+1 for the aftermarket steering wheel causing the issues.

if you use the search feature you might find there's another thread on the forums on hicas issues.

SN1P3R Collaborator

SN1P3R

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mmmm locker bar * thinks * hahaha that could be fun??? Yeah my wheel alignment was done like a month ago, its all straight, BUTTTTTT my steering wheel isnt, well after the alignment that is... Ino that i get a bit of humming in the rear end, but i presumed it was just my diff getting old... And yeah the light switches off when i turn the car off... Ino some times when i slow down like betweenn 20 - 40kms my steering gets really stiff and like impossible to turn, then go's away.... and i thawt that was hicas having a sad.... Thanks for your help guys, i now half understand hicas, i was starting to get a bit concernd haha!

Kermit - Lol No i dont live around the corner from you, i was at my mates :blink: I waved hahaha!!!

MeLSki Veteran

MeLSki

Posted
Posted

hmm power steering fluid.... that might explain the stiffness when you slow down if the hicas light is on, right? Going to Tenagah this friday, I'll get them to have a sqizz and tell me the issue cos Kelly you described the EXACT same problems I'm having!!

MeLSki Veteran

MeLSki

Posted
Posted

i read that thread Benson!! And I got confused as hell! I read the 'to hicas or not to hicas' thread and i was liek whaaaa

I've been best advised to just leave it in and stop crying about it lol

When r you going to Tenagah for the HICAS, Bens?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • MBS206
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...