Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have changed my setup so these parts are surplus to my needs, all are in excel condition or new.

turbosmart s13 bov pipe - $40

t28 induction pipe - $50

apexi EL2 mechanical Boost gauge - $120

alloy racing catch can - $100

2.5" high flow cat, new, made in usa - $80

turbotech bleed valve - $20

momo gear knob - $60

turbosmart boost controller - $60

tomei dump pipe 1000kms old - $200

topstage carbon fibre cold air induction kit with overflow cover suit s13 - $190

tial 38mm 7psi spring, new - $40

rb20 afm - $60

gt2871r 16psi waste gate actuator brand new - $120

straight rod actuator, brand new - $80

k&n air filter pod, never been driven on, (has slight burn on rubber due to welding of intake pipe, still seals fine) refer topics

$60

CA18 STUFF

genuine nissan head gasket, new - $70

bosch external coil setup with mount and wiring loom, new - $220

nismo 555cc injectors, top feed low impedence, fully serviced and flow tested 1000kms ago

selling as I'm upgrading - $400

low mount stainless manifold, little dirty but no cracks - $50

post-35133-1227095969_thumb.jpg

post-35133-1227095984_thumb.jpg

post-35133-1227096001_thumb.jpg

post-35133-1227096016_thumb.jpg

post-35133-1227096031_thumb.jpg

post-35133-1227096046_thumb.jpg

post-35133-1227096089_thumb.jpg

post-35133-1227096605_thumb.jpg

Edited by kizzy

Is the turbotech bleed valve the one that was going for cheap on ebay and has the massive thread dedicated to it? If it is the ball and spring type i'm thinkin of i'll take it man. If its not then what model is the turbo smart boost controller? Oh and Where do you live?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...