Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today I was driving home on Mona Vale Rd at around 70-80km/h when my car stalled. Stalled as in engine off, no power steering, no power assisted brakes. Gauges not working and all in dash lights out.

At the time I was playing music loudly and driving with my head lights on.

Tried to start the car, it would only turn over, no in dash lights, not even Air bag or HICAS. However, my music continues to play, air con continues to work and my clock didn't reset.

After about 30 seconds the dash comes to life and I start the car. Everything sounds as normal. After about 10 mins of driving I decide to see if my car is in limp home mode. Stock boost gage measured full boost where it usually does, revs to 7,000 rpm like it usually does.

I get home, pop the bonnet and try to replicate the problem by loading up the car electrically. Nothing happens. At this point I am relieved and decide to get on with my life, by washing my car.

I drive my car onto the grass and just before I put my hand on the keys it stops. Like before, gauges and lights are dead. This was about an hour ago and it won't start again.

So, what have I eliminated thus far...

Battery/Alternator - Car cranks over just fine

Fuses - All fuses (or at least the ones I can get at) are not blown

Relays - Like fuses, none of the relays show signs of damage

Immobiliser - Immobiliser doesn't cause the dash to die...

My car is stock except for alarm and immobiliser...

Things that I have found odd...

Disconnecting and reconnecting my CAS used to cause some relays to energise and de energise. It doesn't any more.

Fuel pump won't prime at all.

Windows won't go up

Like I said, I'm really at a loss. I wanted to go to Oran Park tomorrow, but it looks like that has gone to shit as I need to fix my car before Monday so I can get to work.

Thanks for any imput

Cass

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245857-engine-cranks-doesnt-start/
Share on other sites

car wont start with less than 12.6 V

so it can crank over, but not start - if its cranking and no dash lights - its definately the battery voltage issue

just jump start it

Just tried to jump start my car, didn't change a thing. Starter motor works really well though lol

To tell you the truth I'm relieved, if it started that probably would have meant I would be up for an alternator as I'm pretty sure cars aren't usually designed to run off the battery while driving :)

I'm now gong to attack the relays under the dash. I have a feeling that my problem is something to do with them...

Thanks for the help :happy:

I had the same problem a few weeks back,

-car shut off during driving

-no power steering/indicators/power windows/dash light

-stereo working fine

-it turns over but wont start

Problem turned out to be that on the back of the immobilizer circuit board, one of those small solder has burned off.

I had the same problem a few weeks back,

-car shut off during driving

-no power steering/indicators/power windows/dash light

-stereo working fine

-it turns over but wont start

Problem turned out to be that on the back of the immobilizer circuit board, one of those small solder has burned off.

I pulled apart my immobiliser, everything looks pristine there. However...

After swapping a relay under the dash with a relay that I had randomly lying around... my car now starts! :) One of the terminals on the old relay was loose... I'd say it rattled itself to death getting me home :happy:

Anyways, I'm stoked! Well... a little pissed off that I missed out on Oran Park today but still, it now works!

Thanks for your help Chris/Daniel/JOn (who didn't post here... but yeah) :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...