Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today I was driving home on Mona Vale Rd at around 70-80km/h when my car stalled. Stalled as in engine off, no power steering, no power assisted brakes. Gauges not working and all in dash lights out.

At the time I was playing music loudly and driving with my head lights on.

Tried to start the car, it would only turn over, no in dash lights, not even Air bag or HICAS. However, my music continues to play, air con continues to work and my clock didn't reset.

After about 30 seconds the dash comes to life and I start the car. Everything sounds as normal. After about 10 mins of driving I decide to see if my car is in limp home mode. Stock boost gage measured full boost where it usually does, revs to 7,000 rpm like it usually does.

I get home, pop the bonnet and try to replicate the problem by loading up the car electrically. Nothing happens. At this point I am relieved and decide to get on with my life, by washing my car.

I drive my car onto the grass and just before I put my hand on the keys it stops. Like before, gauges and lights are dead. This was about an hour ago and it won't start again.

So, what have I eliminated thus far...

Battery/Alternator - Car cranks over just fine

Fuses - All fuses (or at least the ones I can get at) are not blown

Relays - Like fuses, none of the relays show signs of damage

Immobiliser - Immobiliser doesn't cause the dash to die...

My car is stock except for alarm and immobiliser...

Things that I have found odd...

Disconnecting and reconnecting my CAS used to cause some relays to energise and de energise. It doesn't any more.

Fuel pump won't prime at all.

Windows won't go up

Like I said, I'm really at a loss. I wanted to go to Oran Park tomorrow, but it looks like that has gone to shit as I need to fix my car before Monday so I can get to work.

Thanks for any imput

Cass

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245857-engine-cranks-doesnt-start/
Share on other sites

car wont start with less than 12.6 V

so it can crank over, but not start - if its cranking and no dash lights - its definately the battery voltage issue

just jump start it

Just tried to jump start my car, didn't change a thing. Starter motor works really well though lol

To tell you the truth I'm relieved, if it started that probably would have meant I would be up for an alternator as I'm pretty sure cars aren't usually designed to run off the battery while driving :)

I'm now gong to attack the relays under the dash. I have a feeling that my problem is something to do with them...

Thanks for the help :happy:

I had the same problem a few weeks back,

-car shut off during driving

-no power steering/indicators/power windows/dash light

-stereo working fine

-it turns over but wont start

Problem turned out to be that on the back of the immobilizer circuit board, one of those small solder has burned off.

I had the same problem a few weeks back,

-car shut off during driving

-no power steering/indicators/power windows/dash light

-stereo working fine

-it turns over but wont start

Problem turned out to be that on the back of the immobilizer circuit board, one of those small solder has burned off.

I pulled apart my immobiliser, everything looks pristine there. However...

After swapping a relay under the dash with a relay that I had randomly lying around... my car now starts! :) One of the terminals on the old relay was loose... I'd say it rattled itself to death getting me home :happy:

Anyways, I'm stoked! Well... a little pissed off that I missed out on Oran Park today but still, it now works!

Thanks for your help Chris/Daniel/JOn (who didn't post here... but yeah) :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...