Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys Im thinking of adding a Front Mount Intercooler to my R34 Gtt ive been looking on just jap and ive seen two types one where the pipes both go down to the right of the engine bay then goes behingd the cooler and has like a 180 degree bend to the left of the cooler and the other type is the normal one where the pipes go down both sides of the cooler

whats the differecne between to two? and does brands matter

please lets me know

thanks guys

Jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245934-intercoolers/
Share on other sites

Any pics?

This is mine, from just jap.

the other one Im thinking of has the return pipe away from engine (opposite to mine)

and uses the stock intercooler pipes and holes near the airbox

post-24539-1227328278_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245934-intercoolers/#findComment-4276963
Share on other sites

Any pics?

This is mine, from just jap.

the other one Im thinking of has the return pipe away from engine (opposite to mine)

and uses the stock intercooler pipes and holes near the airbox

yeah it does

whats the difference?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245934-intercoolers/#findComment-4277415
Share on other sites

The Stealth type runs the return pipe underneath the intercooler, no drilling or cutting required, i'd assume that it will breath better, as it has less bents and a shorter pipe then the original tube n fin type.

I've the tube n fin type, my return pipe runs across the above of the engine bay, and back to the throttle body, same as Evil's.

As for brands, it doesnt really matter unless you are chasing massive power, jap just kits can handle up to 300rkw+ with proper mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245934-intercoolers/#findComment-4277630
Share on other sites

Also is there much mucking around with the traditional type of intercoolers, i have heard that people have to move the battery, modify air boxes etc?

No, there is no need to move the battery.

There shouldn't be any modification to the stock air box, it should be straight bolt off + bolt on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245934-intercoolers/#findComment-4277846
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...