Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to bring this up again guys, i sure theres a tread about his, but i can't find it unless its about the GTS-t . I know all the turbo version uses Premium Unleaded, but wat about the N/A model? I got the 1993 R33 GTS25 (Non-Turbo!) So wat fuel do u guys use and recommend? Without harming the oxy sensor.

Thanx in advance...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24608-unleaded-or-premium-for-na/
Share on other sites

Thanks, so i'm assuming that when you guys said premium unleaded you mean ones like BP Ultimate, Shell Optimax, Caltex Vortex etc... Cause BP for instance, aren't there like the BP Ultimate with 98 RON and the Premium Unleaded with i think 95 RON?

Someone clear this up for me please

Thanx again.

ultimate is the stuff man, never heard of premium unleaded from BP, thats just the normal stuff. Ive got a user handbook which says anything over 95 however because they are run on 100 in japan its reccommended to use hihger octane fuel like shell, BP, which are 98 (from memory) caltex (97) and errm the others lol.

nah the handbook i got was an 8 page nuthing really, just had sum general things about the car, nuthin special really. I suggest u go to that website that skyla put on cos they are pretty cheap the workshop manuals, i would get one if i had the money to get it :D everything about the line would be simplified then at least!

Yea i won't spend $250 for the workshop manual but may be $50 just for the owners manual. Is that the one you got nismoman18?

And skyla for this one http://www.jpnz.co.nz/xcart/customer/produ...12&cat=8&page=3 how much is it in aus dollar plus postage and handling, do you know? It would be good if aust has got one here. :D

ight thanx guys...:burnout:

I think the exchange rate at the moment is about $1NZ = 0.87c AU so you would be looking $43.50 AU. Sorry don't have a clue on what postage would cost.

I do have a R33 owners hand book, but it's in Japanese. But it still comes in handy now and then.

Originally posted by nismoman18

ultimate is the stuff man, never heard of premium unleaded from BP, thats just the normal stuff. .

Bp sell their "BP ultimate 98 octane" and a few BP places also sell "premium unleaded" which is 95 octane, instead of ultimate.

My old R33 GTS ran on regular unleaded, which is what was recommended in the Japanese Handbook. The handbook for my GT-V (RB25DE) recommends nothing but "Hi Oku", or premium unleaded.

Incidently, it's commonly believed that the Japanese use 100 octane (RON) fuel over here. So far, I have yet to find a gas station that listed the ratings of the various fuels available, so it's hard to say for sure exactly what octane Japanese pump gas really is!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...