Jump to content
SAU Community

Dr30 Front Brake Questions

works 510

By works 510,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

works 510 Experienced

works 510

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Ive got a quick couple of questions for the tech guys here regarding DR30 front brakes.

I know that DR30 struts have 100mm caliper spacing, resulting in a nissan 4 spot caliper being used, but the hub assembly isnt like hr31 (similar to s14,s14 etc) where the disk just slides onto the wheel studs, bolt caliper back on and bobs your uncle.

DR30 is datsun style (hub bolts to disk)

How do I go about fitting or modifying the DR30 hub to accept a S series silvia disk?

Please dont say "put s13 front coilkovers and bits in" as its out of the question (dr30 struts are going into a stanza)

Now the next question, anyone fit 14" wheels over dr30 front brakes?

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246859-dr30-front-brake-questions/
Share on other sites
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Take the disc off the back of the hub (unbolt) and machine down the diameter of the hub to suit, so that the disc hat slides over the top.

The hubs are forged steel, not cast and machine very well.

Cheers, D

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Guys!

It's all to do with the OD of the disc rotor vs space in the back of the wheel.

Your wheels need to clear the caliper, simple as that and 274mm dia DR30 rotors wont allow 14's to go on.

The stock fronts are only 250 so 14 is easy then.

Cheers, D

works 510 Experienced

works 510

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Stock fronts?

As in just plain mr30 strut/brake combo?

Its more the caliper size that kills the fun, I have a similar sized disk on my 1600 struts, using a bmw 4 spot.

Picked up some n/a r32 front brakes yesterday( yay 14" wheels! ) soon as the disks are back from being machined ill send the hubs off to get them modded.

Also going to do a coilover convo on em using threaded colar, will throw up some tutorial style pics as I progress.

Cheers,

Dan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...