Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 actuator sold.

ITEMS STILL UP FOR SALE: some items have price drop...

R33 S2 head lights - 700ono

R33 S2 Front bar with re-enforcement bar (see pic's) - 400ono

R33 GTR front sway bar - $100ono

R33 Stock actuator - $30

R33 Stock Turbo - $ 300

6x 480cc Injectors for RB25DET - side feed - $500

R32 Tanabe Shocks and RSR springs - $250ono

R33 OEM front springs and shocks - $200ono

Used 2 gauge piller pod for R33 - $35

R33 s2 spoiler white - $100

R33 factory front and dump - $60

R33 S2 front driver and passenger seats - $150

Stock R33 GTS25t BOV - $50

Stock R33 GTR BOV - $70

  • 4 months later...

Items still up up for sale...

-R33 S2 Front bar with re-enforcement bar (see pic's) - 400ono

-R33 Stock actuator - $30

-R32 Tanabe Shocks and RSR springs - $250ono

-R33 OEM front springs and shocks - $200ono

-R33 factory front and dump - $60

Price are negotiable...

Items still up up for sale...

-R33 S2 Front bar with re-enforcement bar (see pic's) - 400ono

Price are negotiable...

That front bar is a type M, yes?

Comes with the indicators also, as well as reo bar?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahhh, I need the whole head unit. I definitely needed to roll back through and review your setup, ha ha! Neat setup they have going on. I just need a full double din head unit. But I want good and responsive. I might have to review what the likes of pioneer have out these days.
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
×
×
  • Create New...