Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some of you guys may remember, I had a 32 GTS-T a few years back which is now sold. After a couple of years of changing from car to car, i've decided to go back to the car I've always loved - the R32... Only this time, a GTR.

While i'm all excited and all the usual stuff, i'm also worried. I know they're not the newest cars going around etc, but i've found a fairly clean looking import. It's got 90,000K's on the clock (probably BS) and is a 1993 model. I'm going to get an NRMA inspection, and a compression test done. So I have a couple of questions you may or may not be able to help me with...

What are some things I should look out for? And also, what results should I get on the compression test? I don't know much about this sorta stuff so any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers fellas.

(((I know this may be in the wrong section but I really didn't know where to put this so please don't smash on me)))

Edited by stawka
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247966-about-to-buy-my-first-gtr/
Share on other sites

when you do the comp tes you should make sure the turbo cannot change the cylinder pressure at all. so take the inlet hoes off just before the plenum. not sure of the readings you will expect. but do a full set of readings and record the numbers then put a few drops of 85-140 or other very thick gear oil down the spark plug holes and do another test. if the readings go up by more than a few PSI you will need new rings soon. not cheap. also check out the inside of the top cover by looking into the oil filler cap. if there is a lot of black gunk the motor is screwed. if it looks like new oil colour (remember i am not just talking about the colour of the oil, although this does matter as well) then the engine has probably been looked after. listen to the engine idle. you should hear a light clicking coming from the injectors any clunks spell trouble. rev the engine and listen to the backoff. if the engine clunks when backing off (as is usually the case with big ends that are gone due to the sudden drop in oil pressure) this shows up a lot of usually hidden noises. also bear in mind you will need to replace the timing belt if it is not already changed as the RB26 is an interference engine meaning if the belt goes valves will smash into pistons etc. big dollars..anything else just ask mate. hope you get a good GTR!!

90000 is very likely BS. Having just bought a 93 earlier this year (had 128xxx on the clock and have already done a full rebuild, but was always going to), i would suggest taking it to a mechanic who is very familiar with the GTRs and paying him to go over it. If the seller isn't happy for you to do this then i would want to know why. If I was selling mine I would actually offer to do this myself and foot the bill because it would mean the price I'm asking would be a fair reflection of the condition of the car.

Compression test (I wouldn't settle for anything that isn't 160 or over), oil pressure (yes,a lot of senders are faulty), look very thoroughly for panel damage repairs, all the usual. Factor in changing timing belt and clutch later (if it's still stock)

The idea is not to necessarily to get a car that is absolutely perfect (unless you have that budget) but to get an idea of a realistic price so you can afford to deal with the little issues that will surface after purchase.

I would also go for a drive in a few to see what they should feel like and start spot the differences between something nice and something a bit dodgy. They're such an awesome car to start with it can be a little distracting for the heart over the head.

just a little add on... look at the tyres... most enthusiasts who look after their gtr will spoil it with some decent rubber.. not necessarily semi slicks but not nexans or nankangs or something.. also depending on what colour your getting.. ive seen a few grey ones (including mine) that the paint is literally wearing away.. meaning a respray.

it also helps to prepare yourself if things do go bang... you may buy the most pristine example that just happens to have had its time.. not a reflection on you or the previous owner, things just happen. its all good and well to buy your gtr, but you have to be able to afford to own it, and a 15yr old sports car will go bang eventually, get a spare RB26, freshen it up and sit it in the corner..

i will be in the same position as you in a year or two... after im done with my 32 gtst i plan on getting an FD, then i will get my gtr when i have a nice garage for it to sleep in.

good luck mate, all the best.

I just got the report back from inspection. basically...

-Body is great

-Gearbox/Diff/Front turbo is great

-Rear turbo is leaking a shitload of oil... Could be from the rear turbo or Rings or even Valve-stem seals.

-Never been in an accident

Great condition, only thing that worries the guy is the leak.

Now... If the owner was to repair the leak (if it's the turbo), would you still consider purchasing the car?

Or would you not, simply because of it's recent history...

So how would I know if it's the rear turbo that's leaking/the Rings/Valve stem seals?

The guys mechanic just checked and said it's teh Rocker Cover Gasket and was changing it about an hour ago. I spoke to the inspector and he said that it is a possibility but he doesn't know, and after they clean it up - he wont know... even if he was to go back and check it out.

buy a gtr that is already built with forgies, bigger turbos etc

Some poor bastard will have to sell his gtr that he forked out thousands of dollars on. Keep an eye out for one of them. You will most likely end up spending $ on yours may as well cut some corners and buy one where something else has already done the work. Just make sure the engine is in good working order and enjoy a tough gtr

I'm looking to buy a GTR in the new year so I'm basically in the same boat as you. I've looked at a shitload of cars from dealers and there are a few lemons getting around. What I've decided to do is what Pattygtst & r34nur are suggesting. Have a look on carsales for a GTR that has had a recent rebuild. Make sure they have receipts and do all the usual checks etc. At the very least with an R32 I would be looking for a car that has had the turbos either replaced or recondition, as an absolute minimum. On a car that is 14 - 19 years old the original turbos are not going to last that long.

Good luck with you purchase hopefull you find a nice one :D

Well, bad news. I was supposed to pick the car up today. I was on the way to the guys house, and he calls me and says "Bad news, i've just sold the car to a guy from Adelaide".

So that really f*kt me up! Took the day off work for nothing

Hiya

Hopefully it's not a buyer who's gazumped you by viewing your thread! = the ultimate insult!

When you do find the one with your name on it, I'd leave a deposit but.... subject to a final inspection (which just happens to be pick-up day, or close to it)!

And that guy just saved you from buying a GTR with an oil leak. Just wait till you see how much it costs to have someone work on your GTR. You want at least a couple of months worry free driving before getting anything doing to it that's going to take it off the road for any length of time and kill your new clutch, exhaust and ecu budget. Unless it's for a new clutch, exhaust and ecu of course.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...