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Hey guys,

I want to know if anyone here has done the "coke bottle lid in the BOV return pipe" mod. I've read threads in forced induction section and people get flamed because they want it for the noise

My reason is a bit different

I just got my cooler installed and took it out for a test spin and i get this weird air leaking sound...its really audiable when my Blitz SBC iD Spec-R Boost controller is on and running a set boost but it's not as much noticable when the controller is off...found that the nipple that is on the BOV return pipe is cracked and I'm thinking that's were the leak is coming from.

As a test, I want to put a coke bottle lid to block off the return pipe to see if it will get rid of the leak...(i know that means that i'll get "fully sick uleh" noise but at the moment i'm not worried about it for now...also being an auto I don't know if the stalling side effect will happen)

Now it's only a stop gap measure as i will get the nipple fixed (which is very soon)...I just want to test my car with everything on and running (safely of course)

The other way is to keep the boost controller off until i get the nipple fixed (which I'm doing now so I can get to work)

your thoughts and ideas??

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248422-coke-bottle-lid-mod/
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Since I'm not going to make a new thread about my issues i'll just add on this one

did the coke bottle lid mod and took the car out for a spin...had the boost controller set to 10psi and gave it a stab...get this high pitched noise coming from somewhere in the motor (i get two noises, one is the standart turbo spool and the other is this high pitch noise)...pulled over and checked, there is no noise at idle...gave it a few revs and you can just hear it (obviously it's not going into boost but..yeah) on the drive back turned off the boost controller so its back on stock boost....no noise (or it's very less audiable)

don't know what it can be...car still runs fine, still boosting ok on stock...not going to have the boost controller on for now as i can't stand the noise and I'll be taking the coke bottle lid out as the return BOV pipe is not causing the noise

any ideas??

I once experimented with the 'coke bottle lid' - lasted all of 1 day then the thing melted :P Bit the bullet and looked into a proper Turbosmart Alloy Bung - wasn't expensive so got one of those instead.

I don't use it anymore, so if anyone is keen, shoot me a PM - yours for REAL cheap!

COKE CAN FTW

only stalls if you are being a douche :(

i can vouch for that, altho i didnt use a coke bottle thingy.

mate got a proper peice of metal laser cut for the same size as the bov.

yeh, it only stalls when u want to be a muzza.

i did it for kicks tho, so yeh, it stalls on me haha

flutterz ftmfw

*flame suit on*

it is possible u have a sharp edge on the inside of your cooler making the whisstle.. my first aftermarket cooler (hybrid) made a whistle noise when i installed it, nothing to serious now on my second stagea and installed a monsta fmic of ebay and was expecting a whistle noise but she is smooth as.. not sure if that's your problem but its an idea, can anyone confirm my theory..

it is possible u have a sharp edge on the inside of your cooler making the whisstle.. my first aftermarket cooler (hybrid) made a whistle noise when i installed it, nothing to serious now on my second stagea and installed a monsta fmic of ebay and was expecting a whistle noise but she is smooth as.. not sure if that's your problem but its an idea, can anyone confirm my theory..

let's just say that is the case...what's the best way of fixing it??

I had a prob with a "noise" of all sorts. Thought it was a stuffed turbo but it turned out to be a leak where the inlet hose goes into the turbo. Had inadvertantly broken the seal on the pipe while installing the R34 smic.

Any leak either on the suction (inlet ) side or discharge (boost) side of the turbo will produce a variety of noises and consequences. Dyno on the S13 last week gave 273hp at 20psi, but then fell in a heap. Leak in blocking plate for ex cold start dropped boost to 16psi.

The subtleties of forced induction are a very crooked path.

your problem may be the boost controler actuator click as it comes on boost

I havent heard a blitz spec r do it before but Apexi boost controlers are well know for it

would explain it not happening on stock boost

second noise would be from something you touched since its only just start after you played with stuff

your problem may be the boost controler actuator click as it comes on boost

I havent heard a blitz spec r do it before but Apexi boost controlers are well know for it

would explain it not happening on stock boost

second noise would be from something you touched since its only just start after you played with stuff

The Blitz Spec R does click...but that's not the noise...I've got some time off coming up so I can check it out...mate of me was next to me and told me to give it and he said it sounded horrible but its definitely an air leak...the car is still boosting ok (other than the boost going past the blitz limiter and what I have set it to)

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