Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I want to know if anyone here has done the "coke bottle lid in the BOV return pipe" mod. I've read threads in forced induction section and people get flamed because they want it for the noise

My reason is a bit different

I just got my cooler installed and took it out for a test spin and i get this weird air leaking sound...its really audiable when my Blitz SBC iD Spec-R Boost controller is on and running a set boost but it's not as much noticable when the controller is off...found that the nipple that is on the BOV return pipe is cracked and I'm thinking that's were the leak is coming from.

As a test, I want to put a coke bottle lid to block off the return pipe to see if it will get rid of the leak...(i know that means that i'll get "fully sick uleh" noise but at the moment i'm not worried about it for now...also being an auto I don't know if the stalling side effect will happen)

Now it's only a stop gap measure as i will get the nipple fixed (which is very soon)...I just want to test my car with everything on and running (safely of course)

The other way is to keep the boost controller off until i get the nipple fixed (which I'm doing now so I can get to work)

your thoughts and ideas??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248422-coke-bottle-lid-mod/
Share on other sites

Since I'm not going to make a new thread about my issues i'll just add on this one

did the coke bottle lid mod and took the car out for a spin...had the boost controller set to 10psi and gave it a stab...get this high pitched noise coming from somewhere in the motor (i get two noises, one is the standart turbo spool and the other is this high pitch noise)...pulled over and checked, there is no noise at idle...gave it a few revs and you can just hear it (obviously it's not going into boost but..yeah) on the drive back turned off the boost controller so its back on stock boost....no noise (or it's very less audiable)

don't know what it can be...car still runs fine, still boosting ok on stock...not going to have the boost controller on for now as i can't stand the noise and I'll be taking the coke bottle lid out as the return BOV pipe is not causing the noise

any ideas??

I once experimented with the 'coke bottle lid' - lasted all of 1 day then the thing melted :P Bit the bullet and looked into a proper Turbosmart Alloy Bung - wasn't expensive so got one of those instead.

I don't use it anymore, so if anyone is keen, shoot me a PM - yours for REAL cheap!

COKE CAN FTW

only stalls if you are being a douche :(

i can vouch for that, altho i didnt use a coke bottle thingy.

mate got a proper peice of metal laser cut for the same size as the bov.

yeh, it only stalls when u want to be a muzza.

i did it for kicks tho, so yeh, it stalls on me haha

flutterz ftmfw

*flame suit on*

it is possible u have a sharp edge on the inside of your cooler making the whisstle.. my first aftermarket cooler (hybrid) made a whistle noise when i installed it, nothing to serious now on my second stagea and installed a monsta fmic of ebay and was expecting a whistle noise but she is smooth as.. not sure if that's your problem but its an idea, can anyone confirm my theory..

it is possible u have a sharp edge on the inside of your cooler making the whisstle.. my first aftermarket cooler (hybrid) made a whistle noise when i installed it, nothing to serious now on my second stagea and installed a monsta fmic of ebay and was expecting a whistle noise but she is smooth as.. not sure if that's your problem but its an idea, can anyone confirm my theory..

let's just say that is the case...what's the best way of fixing it??

I had a prob with a "noise" of all sorts. Thought it was a stuffed turbo but it turned out to be a leak where the inlet hose goes into the turbo. Had inadvertantly broken the seal on the pipe while installing the R34 smic.

Any leak either on the suction (inlet ) side or discharge (boost) side of the turbo will produce a variety of noises and consequences. Dyno on the S13 last week gave 273hp at 20psi, but then fell in a heap. Leak in blocking plate for ex cold start dropped boost to 16psi.

The subtleties of forced induction are a very crooked path.

your problem may be the boost controler actuator click as it comes on boost

I havent heard a blitz spec r do it before but Apexi boost controlers are well know for it

would explain it not happening on stock boost

second noise would be from something you touched since its only just start after you played with stuff

your problem may be the boost controler actuator click as it comes on boost

I havent heard a blitz spec r do it before but Apexi boost controlers are well know for it

would explain it not happening on stock boost

second noise would be from something you touched since its only just start after you played with stuff

The Blitz Spec R does click...but that's not the noise...I've got some time off coming up so I can check it out...mate of me was next to me and told me to give it and he said it sounded horrible but its definitely an air leak...the car is still boosting ok (other than the boost going past the blitz limiter and what I have set it to)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah its a server spammer thing  Although, now that I manually approve all the accounts I can probably loosen up some of the restrictions.  
    • Thread bump, again! Although, no bad news this time. Posting for the sake of possible root cause. Basically, I rebuilt it (mostly stock), installed Haltech + sensors, had it running fine on new ECU.  Still not really understanding why it cracked pistons last time. Got to tuners, and while checking timing, noticed +-10deg of timing scatter while revving. Changed CAS, and it was rock solid. While not definitive, can't imagine seeing 20+ psi with that amount of scatter would be a good thing. Also glad I found something.   Bit more of a run down; Carried out a stock rebuild, a set of stock pistons, out of a spare bottom end. Everything stock apart from head studs and oil restrictors. (so I can pretend I didn't let the Nissan out, ha.) Armed with the measuring gear and FSM, set about doing overhaul. Oil restrictors as per oil control thread for a RB25, stock oil pump, drifting. Head drain/vent from rear of head, to passenger side of sump above oil level. Two dash 10 vent lines from drivers side of sump (unused atm) Hi octane style cam cover breather kit Splash covers over last 2 cam caps. Both breather lines from cam covers to vented to atmosphere catch can, not plumbed back into sump (wanted to see what it was actually breathing). Got it run in (did about a 1000km) no to low boost scenario, As I had questions over old ECU setup. Installed haltech +sensors for flex Retune on E85 (finding CAS Issue along the way), made 300rwkw at 20psi, out of wastegate. Did a drift day the next day (yes, it was a big weekend!) and was checking catch can throughout the day, ZERO blowby. I mean nothing. Lines from cam covers are not even wet. Done a bunch of street driving, spirited and catch can is still dry. Early days I guess, but pretty happy so far. Also now run 10w60, up from the 10w40 that I used to run. Oil pressure is significantly better, especially when hot (as you would expect)      
    • Thanks buddy. I thought it was a server storage thing. 🤣
    • Perfect! Thanks for this, both look like great options!
×
×
  • Create New...