Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, sorry if this topic has been posted up sumwhere else in here, but im in need of desperate help.

ive got a cefiro with a rb25 in it. wen i was changing my oil wen filling it up sum got in2 the 1st coilpack/sparkplug we cleaned it out n it was fine, took it 2 a drift practice last wkend and now my car has a major miss, under load it coughs n sounds like its dropping a cylinder, we put new plugs in it n it would only run low boost which is 6-7psi, put it up2 high boost which is 11-12psi n it would pop n carry on like its spiking. ok since changing the plugs again n gapping them to .6 and different coilpacks today it is now coughing n carrying on wen free revving ie just tapping the throttle.

it also sorta stalls after u rev it. we swapped ignitors on my mates car couple wks ago. n it was fine. changed afms didnt make a difference, im really stumped hey, if ne1 can give me sum ideas as of wats causing it etc id appreciate ur help.

thanks

carter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249740-help-help-help/
Share on other sites

Plugs: Gap them to 0.8 or 0.9mm for testing.

Coilpacks: check for cracks in the coil packs, common on CA engines, and also RB engines

Cylinder head: Check for oil down there, if you got some down there, clean it all out. If you have to, leave plug in and flush with fuel, then soak out with a sponge.

Other stuff: Remove the coil packs of the 'mis-firing' plug, take the rubber off the bottom of the coil pack, and clean with degreaser, also clean the carbon tip of the coilpack to make sure it will get a good connection.

Start the car with the coilcover off in a dark garage, see if you can see stray sparks from the coil pack, this usually signifies a cracked pack ($240 new from Nissan EACH).

If you are having issues finding the mis-firing coils, start up, then slide the ignitor out one but one, if the engine idles worse, then it's not the mis-firing pack, if it makes no difference, it's the culprit.

PS, to get better assistance from the guys, you should make the title better "help help help" doesn't say your having misfiring problems, etc and makes it harder for the specialised people to answer questions.

B.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249740-help-help-help/#findComment-4330712
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...