Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mate I sympathise with you being in a small town, been there done that.

My first thought was it sounds like you have an air leak, have you checked right over all your hoses??? Especially the two on the intercooler? They can split under the outter cover and be a royal pain to find.

Can you hear any strange noises? other than the actual engine running poor?

Mate I sympathise with you being in a small town, been there done that.

My first thought was it sounds like you have an air leak, have you checked right over all your hoses??? Especially the two on the intercooler? They can split under the outter cover and be a royal pain to find.

Can you hear any strange noises? other than the actual engine running poor?

Yep checked them all... did the water trick when it's running, just a thought could it be the timing belt has skiped a tooth? making the time way out?

Ok, so no air leaks. But overfuelling still? Next thing to check is the AFM's.

There are two problems with GTR AFM'S as far as I'm aware.

1: The actual loom connector where it plugs onto the AFM. The pins loose their tension causing various, constant or intermitent problems. I had this, took a little while to track down. It would start running rough, smoking etc, so I could pull over, wriggle the connector and you can hear the engine change note.

These connectors are not available from Nissan, some of the SAU supporters sell them. In my case I was working at an importer at the time, Subaru use the same STYLE connector, so I used better condition pins from a subaru connector and joined into the car's loom. Have done over 30,000km with no problem since.

2: The other problem is under the top cover of the AFM there are solder joints where the pins are soldered. With the weight of the connector on them these can fail. There is a thread on SAU showing how to do this. It is quite simple.

Have a look at these two things before stressing yourself out.

Ok, so no air leaks. But overfuelling still? Next thing to check is the AFM's.

There are two problems with GTR AFM'S as far as I'm aware.

1: The actual loom connector where it plugs onto the AFM. The pins loose their tension causing various, constant or intermitent problems. I had this, took a little while to track down. It would start running rough, smoking etc, so I could pull over, wriggle the connector and you can hear the engine change note.

These connectors are not available from Nissan, some of the SAU supporters sell them. In my case I was working at an importer at the time, Subaru use the same STYLE connector, so I used better condition pins from a subaru connector and joined into the car's loom. Have done over 30,000km with no problem since.

2: The other problem is under the top cover of the AFM there are solder joints where the pins are soldered. With the weight of the connector on them these can fail. There is a thread on SAU showing how to do this. It is quite simple.

Have a look at these two things before stressing yourself out

Cheers. can i solder the wires directly to the AFM to test it out? Not wise?

I've actually seen people use individual socket terminals that fit the afm pins then silicon the whole thing up! I personally would never do something like that.

I actually tested mine, I used a couple of paper clips to back probe the afm's with a multimeter when the car was running. My signals were way out of spec, thats what lead me down the afm path.

I cant remember what the specs were and what terminals to test. Its in the workshop manual. I can get it for you tomorrow.

Another thing that can cause similar issues, but it would be constant, is if the fuel pressure reg seized shut, But I'd be checking the AFMs first.

agreed with the self diagnostic check, which is how i knew my AFM were causing an intermitent problem.

do a search and find the link, + a list of the codes.

from memory and this is assuming you have the same single led rear ecu (mines 89')...

remove passenger side kick panel

undo ecu

turn screw on rear of ecu all the way to the right

turn on ignition, wait 2 seconds

turn screw all the way back counter clockwise

the led light on the rear and a light on the dash will flash the code (check with list of codes)

agreed with the self diagnostic check, which is how i knew my AFM were causing an intermitent problem.

do a search and find the link, + a list of the codes.

from memory and this is assuming you have the same single led rear ecu (mines 89')...

remove passenger side kick panel

undo ecu

turn screw on rear of ecu all the way to the right

turn on ignition, wait 2 seconds

turn screw all the way back counter clockwise

the led light on the rear and a light on the dash will flash the code (check with list of codes)

Cheers for that i will try to get to it tonight...

agreed with the self diagnostic check, which is how i knew my AFM were causing an intermitent problem.

do a search and find the link, + a list of the codes.

from memory and this is assuming you have the same single led rear ecu (mines 89')...

remove passenger side kick panel

undo ecu

turn screw on rear of ecu all the way to the right

turn on ignition, wait 2 seconds

turn screw all the way back counter clockwise

the led light on the rear and a light on the dash will flash the code (check with list of codes)

G'day guys. Just wondering if its the same to same on a R32 GTS-t??? Problems with mine.

G'day guys. Just wondering if its the same to same on a R32 GTS-t??? Problems with mine.

UPDATE!

I stripped out the AFM meter to start checking them... as i removed the airbox i notice that the twin turbo pipe was semi loose...

BAM

The twin turbo pipe has a little elbo that sits inbetween the turbo inlet and TT pipe, it had cracked in two and was just sitting on there causing the boost leek and really shit performace. Now to find this part....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...