Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i am new to these forums .i am prepared to offer my services to the members .

i have access to a cnc lathe with live tooling and also a machine centre "mill'.

my proposal is if anyone has any ideas /parts they would like to have cnc machined and there is a interest in it on the forum to make it worth making ,i am prepared to make parts .obviously the person that has the idea will recieve their part for free or for cost of material if it goes to manufacture.

prefer to make cosmetic parts or bolt on like brake res caps /covers etc you may have seen a part for another make/model car or don't know where to buy the part from .no performance parts like turbo bov etc

start sending your ideas

dave

Edited by texasholdem
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250002-look-cnc-machining-custom-parts/
Share on other sites

To be honest, i have done this brake conversion on a car. Its really not a good setup at all, as to make the pad gat close to full contact on the rotor, we had to machine a lot of alloy out of the calliper to suit the different diameter rotor, which is certainly highly illegal , as it weakens the calliper, and even after taking enough metal off the calliper that the bolts holding the two halves of the calliper were exposed, even then the pad hung off the edge of the disc, which obviously isnt good for pad wear and brake performance. Although it seems like a good upgrade, the end result is definately a :laugh: and could never be properly engineered

i have done a few brake conversion kits and wondered how it would go with the extra dia on the disc .

if someone had done it and could supply a sample to copy it would be easier .i dont really want to pull my car apart to jig up a caliper if it isnt a really good conversion .

my wife uses our r34 as a daily so a brake kit is something that would take time .

more interested in making bolt on bits or cosmetic bits .billet strut brace mounts etc would be easier to make . i will have a look over the car the next few days for suggestions and see what ideas i can come up with

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
    • Oh nah, S55 doesn't eat bearings, just the crank hub slips lol.
    • When’s the tow ball on the 33 coming? 🙃
    • I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end.   What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks. 
×
×
  • Create New...