Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb31det

RB30Z32

By RB30Z32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RB30Z32 Newbie

RB30Z32

Posted
Posted

Hello all.

I've have a question about RB31DET's.

What makes them 31's, different from the 30's?

I have a series 2 N/A RB30 that I'm bolting a RB26 head to & putting it in my Z32. I'm going to be using forged pistons antway & was wondering if the RB31 is just a overbored RB30. I've been searching around on here & the interweb but can't find the info on what makes a RB31 a RB31.

Any replys would be graetfully received.

Thanks

Stu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250210-rb31det/
Share on other sites
R.I.P.S NZ Collaborator

R.I.P.S NZ

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the info guys.

87mm bore with stock stroke is only 3032cc, your far better to keep the bore as thick as possible and if you want a RB31 or bigger go with a stroker crank with custom pistons and rods etc.

Not worth the trouble/expense unless your after something different and even more torque than a 30.

A well built 30 is usually plenty in any case.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250210-rb31det/#findComment-4340351
Share on other sites
Spoolup Mentor

Spoolup

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Rob

Since no one has asked the question I will.

What does one of your RB33 stroker kits cost ? and what does it consist of ?

I am just curious as are a few on these forums.

Cheers

87mm bore with stock stroke is only 3032cc, your far better to keep the bore as thick as possible and if you want a RB31 or bigger go with a stroker crank with custom pistons and rods etc.

Not worth the trouble/expense unless your after something different and even more torque than a 30.

A well built 30 is usually plenty in any case.

Rob

Edited by Spoolup
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250210-rb31det/#findComment-4340880
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...