Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Complete Rb26 Bottom end including sump if needed. (from R32)

Age: Most parts Brand new, crank used but crack tested.

Condition: All new parts with machining done (Almost at the stage of final assembly)

Price: Complete sell for $6000firm Note: value well over $7000

Willing to separate tho would rather sell together considering the work thats been done.

Location: Sydney

Value:

Cp pistons are +20 thou, well over $1000 new

Brand new Eagle rods $500+

N1 block is brand new item with machining, $2400 + machining work

Used tested cran $1000

acl bearings & arp main studs $200+

Rb26 sump + diff $500

+ the machining work $$$$

Comments:

Machining done as follows,

Hot tank Crank, Crack test crank,

Studs nuts fitted to main caps, Line hone 7 main's,

Rod check/set hone small end, rod check big end and align.

Tunnels measure sizes measure crush, check & set bearing clearances

Drill tap fit Plug

Comp spec micro polish crankshaft

Bore and Hone 6 cyl Torque plate

Trial build check deck and square

reface block square.

Balance 6 cyl manual.

Reason for sale, going to use my Mahle/Pauter rod combo instead

Edited by Angus Smart

Bump,

Would like to add all the work has been carried out by a very good shop in Adelaide Pm me if your interested to find out who.

good luck with that one buddy...

I've just checked the crank, dew to a few questions. it is the larger sized crank drive.

Cp pistons are 86.5mm (+20thou)

and going on what i can see, the ring gaps are the only thing left to be done +final assembly

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Pistons and Rods are sold and there is no arp studs left

the rest is still up for sale

Block/Cradle, crank and bearings. will take 3400 for block and crank,

photos of block etc..

post-31456-1234266963_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267000_thumb.jpg

post-31456-1234267140_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267201_thumb.jpg

post-31456-1234267229_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267284_thumb.jpg

Pistons and Rods are sold and there is no arp studs left

the rest is still up for sale

Block/Cradle, crank and bearings. will take 3400 for block and crank,

photos of block etc..

post-31456-1234266963_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267000_thumb.jpg

post-31456-1234267140_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267201_thumb.jpg

post-31456-1234267229_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267284_thumb.jpg

Rods and pistons sold to me! Thanks Andrew!!!!

Andrew is a great guy to deal with guys!

Free bump!

  • 2 weeks later...

Block. crank cradle bearings still available.

Crank was rebuild/checked by Crankshaft rebuilders in Sa or Victoria.

Edited by Angus Smart
  • 2 weeks later...
Block. crank cradle bearings still available.

Crank was rebuild/checked by Crankshaft rebuilders in Sa or Victoria.

U willing to sell the cradle seperate if so message me. Cheers

  • 1 year later...
Block. crank cradle bearings still available.

Crank was rebuild/checked by Crankshaft rebuilders in Sa or Victoria.

i'm new to the forums so i can't send PMs yet.. do you have an e_mail where i can contact you?

i'm interested in the bearings

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...