Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Complete Rb26 Bottom end including sump if needed. (from R32)

Age: Most parts Brand new, crank used but crack tested.

Condition: All new parts with machining done (Almost at the stage of final assembly)

Price: Complete sell for $6000firm Note: value well over $7000

Willing to separate tho would rather sell together considering the work thats been done.

Location: Sydney

Value:

Cp pistons are +20 thou, well over $1000 new

Brand new Eagle rods $500+

N1 block is brand new item with machining, $2400 + machining work

Used tested cran $1000

acl bearings & arp main studs $200+

Rb26 sump + diff $500

+ the machining work $$$$

Comments:

Machining done as follows,

Hot tank Crank, Crack test crank,

Studs nuts fitted to main caps, Line hone 7 main's,

Rod check/set hone small end, rod check big end and align.

Tunnels measure sizes measure crush, check & set bearing clearances

Drill tap fit Plug

Comp spec micro polish crankshaft

Bore and Hone 6 cyl Torque plate

Trial build check deck and square

reface block square.

Balance 6 cyl manual.

Reason for sale, going to use my Mahle/Pauter rod combo instead

Edited by Angus Smart

Bump,

Would like to add all the work has been carried out by a very good shop in Adelaide Pm me if your interested to find out who.

good luck with that one buddy...

I've just checked the crank, dew to a few questions. it is the larger sized crank drive.

Cp pistons are 86.5mm (+20thou)

and going on what i can see, the ring gaps are the only thing left to be done +final assembly

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Pistons and Rods are sold and there is no arp studs left

the rest is still up for sale

Block/Cradle, crank and bearings. will take 3400 for block and crank,

photos of block etc..

post-31456-1234266963_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267000_thumb.jpg

post-31456-1234267140_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267201_thumb.jpg

post-31456-1234267229_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267284_thumb.jpg

Pistons and Rods are sold and there is no arp studs left

the rest is still up for sale

Block/Cradle, crank and bearings. will take 3400 for block and crank,

photos of block etc..

post-31456-1234266963_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267000_thumb.jpg

post-31456-1234267140_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267201_thumb.jpg

post-31456-1234267229_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1234267284_thumb.jpg

Rods and pistons sold to me! Thanks Andrew!!!!

Andrew is a great guy to deal with guys!

Free bump!

  • 2 weeks later...

Block. crank cradle bearings still available.

Crank was rebuild/checked by Crankshaft rebuilders in Sa or Victoria.

Edited by Angus Smart
  • 2 weeks later...
Block. crank cradle bearings still available.

Crank was rebuild/checked by Crankshaft rebuilders in Sa or Victoria.

U willing to sell the cradle seperate if so message me. Cheers

  • 1 year later...
Block. crank cradle bearings still available.

Crank was rebuild/checked by Crankshaft rebuilders in Sa or Victoria.

i'm new to the forums so i can't send PMs yet.. do you have an e_mail where i can contact you?

i'm interested in the bearings

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...