Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

so ive just had the full garrett treatment; 2860-5, 115mm FMIC+ pipping, LINK G4, 770 inj, profect b, hks twin, nismo pump, standard mint engine running 18 lbs, 7500RPM limit, 320AWKW......

i dont want to have to go through the whole forged rebuild yet, but will eventually, i am really only using this car for street, and am guessing if i start winding these buggers up to around the 380+awkw its going to put a strain on the rest of the car

QUESTIONS

i think i would like to trade down to the smaller -7's

i miss the big kick of the smaller turbos, im not after massive power

1. so the -7's are maxed at around 330awkw, what kind of boost is needed for this figure?

2. are cams needed?

3. has anyone driven same car, but with the different turbos, is there quite a big difference?

4. am i stupid? i kinda was given wrong advice on turbo sizing

5. have tryed searching but it aint working

cheers robbie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250659-2860-help-please/
Share on other sites

Read this thread:

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/99765-gt-ss-gt2530.html

2530s are similar to what you have -5. A good tuner will get similar response out of -5 to the -7 (only 500rpm difference) but with more power from 5000rpm onwards.

There are some in the thread that started with the -7 and went to the -5. They say they prefer the -5 set up.

Id be listening to people who have had both set ups, but thats just me.

Heres a link to GTSS vs -5 done on the same car on the same dyno if that helps.

http://sthitec.blogspot.com/2008/05/gt-ss-...or-2560r-5.html

The setup of the -5's it's bundled off with the 0.64 AR rear as opposed to the smaller hot side on the -7's , so at 250rwkw plus it's got an easier path to push the compressor to it's potential.

The -7's at 330rwkw are going to need lots of boost and due to the efficiency range will be pumping much hotter air than the -5's or -9's.

The -9's are better than -7's and if setup correctly will get you the same power you have now (320rwkw) with 1,000 rpm or more of earlier spool and a larger amount of power in the lower / mid part of the power band.

The key factor in getting the turbos to do what you want is to set them up correctly. The -9's are very tune forgiving and this is clear from the compressor map.

I reckon -9's with a larger 0.84 housing (and custom dumps to suit) would be the ultimate with a serious build/cams.

The setup of the -5's it's bundled off with the 0.64 AR rear as opposed to the smaller hot side on the -7's , so at 250rwkw plus it's got an easier path to push the compressor to it's potential.

The -7's at 330rwkw are going to need lots of boost and due to the efficiency range will be pumping much hotter air than the -5's or -9's.

The -9's are better than -7's and if setup correctly will get you the same power you have now (320rwkw) with 1,000 rpm or more of earlier spool and a larger amount of power in the lower / mid part of the power band.

The key factor in getting the turbos to do what you want is to set them up correctly. The -9's are very tune forgiving and this is clear from the compressor map.

I reckon -9's with a larger 0.84 housing (and custom dumps to suit) would be the ultimate with a serious build/cams.

hmmm, maybe i should just increase the boost to 20lbs, and see how they feel then, dont get me wrong its a sweet car to drive, but miss the ol' "chuck back into seat"

At 320rwkw you should be thrown back alot more than the stock turbo's.

You could tune the bottom end power band with adjustable cam gears and lop off the top end power to keep the stock motor alive.

It will be a nice suprise for your tuner to be one of the few people who walk in and say " up the boost to 20lbs we are aiming for the best mid range and I want to limit the top end to 300rwkw and 7000 rpm ".

My rb26 has the 2860 -7 and is making 300rwkw at 16psi it fairly throws me back into the seat... was enough for a passenger to bend the support for the backrest lol. i'm thinking about winding them up to 18-19psi and going for 330-340rwkw with a more aggressive tune.

At 320rwkw you should be thrown back alot more than the stock turbo's.

You could tune the bottom end power band with adjustable cam gears and lop off the top end power to keep the stock motor alive.

It will be a nice suprise for your tuner to be one of the few people who walk in and say " up the boost to 20lbs we are aiming for the best mid range and I want to limit the top end to 300rwkw and 7000 rpm ".

that's what i did with the 33

hks 2835 pro s on stock rb25 with adj ex cam gear

i'm gettin 265 where most people are gettin 280 BUT i have stock turbo response and couldn't be happier

yeah i get full boost by about 3200 - 3500 and with the bottom end of a 26 it's not too worrying to have it alitlle later at least you can drive off boost around town easier but it's still super responsive and doesn't stop pulling till the rev limiter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...