Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Just got some parts to clear out. PM me if interested.

R34 RB25det intake manifold (top section) $80

-Good for turning into front facing plenum

manifold1rx3.th.jpg

R34 RB25det intake manifold (lower section) $80

-Good flanges for welding aftermarket plenum on

manifold2si1.th.jpg

R34 RB25det throttle body / AAC valve $80

throttlebodymn0.th.jpg

R34 Rear high stop light $40

-Standard rear high stop light, to fit 1998-2002 R34

-Perfect working order

factoryhighstoplight2eg2.th.jpg

R34 Skyline / Stagea side blinkers $40

-Standard blinker / indicator lights

-Fits 1998-2002 R34 and Stagea

-Perfect working order

-Blubs included

factorysideblinkers1pj6.th.jpg

R33 GTR Blow off valves $180

-Factory BOV's off R33 GTR

-Can split for $100 each

blowoffvalvesii7.th.jpg

NOTE: All prices are (AU) dollars. Shipping will be additional $15 (AU). Open to reasonable offers.

Am located in Auckland, New Zealand

My trader feedback if necessary:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=37637&la=0

Cheers

Edited by Chang
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251025-garage-clear-out/
Share on other sites

PM's sent and replied.

Also found this hiding in the corner.

R34 Xenon Headlight RHS $200

-Both brackets broken

-Small hole on housing, does not affect light operation

-Park light section needs to be pushed back in as it jiggles (circled red)

-Includes power unit

-All bulbs included

96555044aa0.th.jpg

xenonheadlightrhs2eq7.th.jpg

xenonheadlightrhs3ar5.th.jpg

Edited by Chang

** Throttle body / AAC valve sold **

All other parts available.

Please don't PM or tell me to PM you (as per people above) if you have no intent of buying. Your just waisting mine and your time.

Also selling these now as thinking about putting car up for sale

R34 Pedal box $100

-Clutch + brake pedal

-Both refurbished and painted

-Nismo pedal attachments included

afterir9.th.jpg

Cheers

Edited by Chang

R33 / R34 Cusco front strut bar / brace $120

-Will fit all R33 and R34 models (series I / II and GTR)

-Mint, apart from small paint nic at end plates

cuscostrutbrace2ng6.th.jpg

cuscostrutbrace3df6.th.jpg

Maybe more parts to come, so keep a look out in this thread

** R34 XENON headlight SOLD **

Still Available:

- R33 / R34 Cusco front strut bar / brace $120

- R34 Pedal box $100

- R34 RB25det intake manifold (top section) $80

- R34 RB25det intake manifold (lower section) $80

- R34 Rear high stop light $40

- R34 Skyline / Stagea side blinkers $40

- R33 GTR Blow off valves $180

Edited by Chang

** Price drop **

Still Available:

- R33 / R34 Cusco front strut bar / brace $120 $100

- R34 RB25det intake manifold (top section) $80

- R34 RB25det intake manifold (lower section) $80

- R34 Rear high stop light $40

- R34 Skyline / Stagea side blinkers $40

- R33 GTR Blow off valves $150 $120

** Cusco Strut Bar SOLD **

- R34 RB25det intake manifold (top section) $80

- R34 RB25det intake manifold (lower section) $80

- R34 Rear high stop light $40

- R34 Skyline / Stagea side blinkers $40

- R33 GTR Blow off valves $120

Edited by Chang

- R34 RB25det intake manifold (top section)

- R34 RB25det intake manifold (lower section)

- R34 Rear high stop light

- R34 Skyline / Stagea side blinkers

- R33 GTR Blow off valves

** NO prices now! Make a decent offer and it's yours **

Edited by Chang

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...