Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh i have, no problems at all once you send them the money. took a week from when i send the money to when i got the intercooler, if you want the hybrid 660 300 75 then its the best price at the moment. if you look at www.powerdigger.com.au then you will see what it normally sells for.

Did you go through the Ebay secure thingy to pay them or did you just Direct deposit or credit card it? cos for me, that's a lot of money if they decide not to send the cooler.... if you know what I mean.

As for the price from power digger, I have seen them here in Adelaide for the same price in AutoBahn.....

i went to the buy now tab thinking (pay by credit card)but no they will e-mail you with payment details once they get the order or reply from ebay. i got feed up and ended up sending them a money order for 720 postage and handling.

I know its hard to say how much better theyd be, especially considering the vested interest that ARE have in the explanation of their cores and end tanks on their site. However ARE have spent alot of time and money researching their end tanks and own the mouldings for their unique castings. And alot of what they say does make sense. Its good reading, honest :)

I don't wanna diss the Hybrids, theyre still bloody good value. In fact ill take back my comment above :D However most people might not be aware that ARE's previously expensive pricing compared to the Hybrids has recently been revised.

Might be another option for people to consider.

Red17

I know that size isn't everything but....

ARE: 520 x 300 x 75 for $878

Hybrid: 660 x 300 x 75 for $690

Not that I have anything against ARE, I've heard that they are really good coolers, but for a stock turbo, it's not like the cooler is going to get pushed to its limits...

A.R.E are good cooler thats a given but i bought the hybrid super monster cooler (600x300x76) off flyn perfornamce direct very very good to deal with indeed answered any questions i had sytraight away...... the cooler on my car is supporting boost up to about 1.5 bar (22psi roughly) and had helped me make 275 rwhp with a shitty standard ecu with air fuels all over the place easilly be tuned to over 300rwhp at like 16 psi...... overall i reccomend these coolers and also reccomend flying performance aswell....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...