Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well tonight I had a fantastic idea. I wanted to hide my electronic boost controller (Profec B spec II) from the wrong eyes. A sort of set-and-forget attitude if you will. So I decided to wire up a Hi-Lo boost mode switch via the Wiper De-Icing Switch, located above the ignition barrel on the Stagea (S1). This not only is a conveniently located switch, but the dash remains entirely unmarked and keeps a factory appearance. Handy for when you don't want cops and theives looking around or asking questions. (I've been defected too many times with previous cars)

It was a pretty straightforward modification, and only took me around 20 minutes. (plus dinner)

Firstly I followed the steps for making a connector for the Profec B Spec II, in this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sw...l=profec+switch

But I then removed the De-Icing switch using a small flat bladed screwdriver, being carefull not to mark the surrouunding dash. Alternatively you could remove the switch from the back, by removing the neccessary panels (steering column covers then cluster surround)

After unplugging the switch, I stripped back the loom shield, and cut ALL the wires leading into the plug. Using the BLUE and GREEN wires only, I soldered these to the WHITE (+5V) and BLACK (Ground) wires on the "headphone" cable that leads into the back of the Profec B Spec II.

After taping up the loose wires and moving the Profec B Spec II into the coin tray, beneath the dash, I tested the switch and it all works fine.

I do realise that cutting ALL the wires from behind the switch no longer allows the use of the Wiper De-Icer, but since when am I going to use that in Australia anyway? Make sure you tape up all the loose wires from behind the switch, or they might accidentally trip the Relay or possibly short out.

I had considered wiring up the illumination bulb in the switch to show when hi-boost is selected, but realised that unfortunatelly the switch uses a shared ground with the Profec B Spec II and this would interfeer with the mode switching function.

Heres a pic of where the switch is located (this is not my car)

I will post up proper photos soon.

Enjoy!

Nigel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251995-stealthy-boost-switch-in-stageas/
Share on other sites

Heres a pic of where the switch is located (this is not my car)

Did you miss this part?

My car is in pieces at the moment, so I could not take a photo, so I just used this one that I had on my laptop.

Your stag is shaping up to be fairly unique, with this and the door trim and the lights...

mate, you should see some of the other 260's here in adelaide that dont promote what they are doing to some of the people that troll our forums....

mate, you should see some of the other 260's here in adelaide that dont promote what they are doing to some of the people that troll our forums....

Yeh for sure! i have seen ben's 260, yet to see nene's, seen adams and one other, but haven't seen any others that are modded.

Doh! missed that.

Photos will be up shortly, maybe tomorrow night. I've only just put the car back together.

I had to jump start the car tonight because it hasn't been started in a fair while.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...