Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi. I'm new to this forum and live in New Zealand. I'm considering selling my 2002 Nissan GTR R34 M Spec Nur, as my wife and I are starting a family. This is an extremely rare and collectible vehicle, being 1 of only 250 ever produced by Nissan. There are probably even fewer than that still in existence today. There has been in excess of NZ$300,000 invested into this Nur and it has the best of everything.

It was sent to Mines in Japan straight from the factory to unleash the beast within. It was then delivered to its new owner in NZ in 2004 with only 65 delivery kms on the odometer. Being the only R34 GTR M Spec Nur in the country, it has been a show car much of its life, having graced the pages of a number of Kiwi publications. Performance Car Magazine conducted a 0-100km/h speed test and achieved a time of 3.8 seconds. The car produces a very reliable 421KW at all four wheels (that's 565KW or 700hp at the engine) and around 800NM of torque. It has never been accident damaged, raced or tracked and is regularly serviced.

To give you an idea of the level of performance of a tuned R34 GTR vs the new R35 GTR, check out:

To give you an idea of the level of performance of my Nur, check out the Mines R34 GTR below. The Mines team used many of the same spec performance parts, turbos, etc for my Nur, but due to larger injectors, etc, it produces 120hp more than the Mines GTR:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScJi_7IMIqg...feature=related

If you've been looking for something special and unique with performance to match, your wait may be over. Photos and a dyno sheet can be found in my album.

Price is AUD$120,000. Shipping and any applicable Australian taxes are the buyer's responsibility.

For anyone seriously interested, please drop me a line at [email protected]

Year: 2002

Mileage: 69,000 kms

Transmission: 6 speed manual

Further background and spec sheet

There were 1000 Nur's built in total (750 of the V Spec II and 250 of the M Spec), to celebrate the Z Tune GTR breaking the fastest lap record for a production car at the Nurburgring. The M Spec was the higher spec model with additional features like a full leather interior and ripple control. Further details can be found here: http://chrisnz.com/nissan-r34-gtr-mspec-nur/

ENGINE, COOLING, EXHAUST:

HKS GT2530 TURBO'S x2

HKS TURBO ACTUATORS

HKS RACING AIRFILTER SUCTION KIT

HKS FUEL RAIL

SARD 720cc INJECTORS

SARD FUEL REGULATOR

HKS F-CON V PRO ECU

NEKO AIR/FUEL AMP GUAGE

NISMO INTAKE MANIFOLD

SARD AIR CORRECTOR TANK

ARC OIL CATCH TANK

NISSAN BNR33 FRONT & REAR DIFFS. (4.11)

NISMO SPORT OIL COOLER

MINES BIG CAPACITY FUEL PUMP

MINES SUPER CAMSHAFT (1N. 252 EX. 252 LIFT 10.05)

MINES S/S SUPER TURBINE OUTLET PRO2

TOMEI 1.2MM METAL HEAD GASKET

MINES CAM GEARS

MINES CAM COVER OIL BAFFLE PLATE

HKS EVC4 BOOST CONTROLLER

HKS S/S INTERCOOLER PIPING KIT

NISMO G MAX SPEC2 TWIN PLATE CLUTCH

MINES S/S FRONT PIPE PRO2

MINES TITANIUM VX PRO EXHAUST

TOMEI FUEL PUMP RELAY MODULATOR

NISMO MFD VER. 2

NISMO SPORT RADIATOR

NISMO SPORT INTERCOOLER

NISMO AIR INLET PIPE

NISMO CAM BELT

NISMO OIL PAN BAFFLE PLATE

NISMO FRONT / REAR SWAY BARS

HKS KANSAI T-BAR

BRAKES:

ENDLESS 6 POT RACING BRAKES F & R

WHEELS, TYRES, BODY:

NISMO 19" x10.5" LMGT4

GOODYEAR F1 GS-D3 275x30x19 (Brand New)

NISMO BODY KIT

SUSPENSION:

ROBERUTA HEIGHT ADJUST WITH REMOTE (60MM RAISE)

TOP SECRET / AROGOSTA (10F 8R) COILOVER & 14 WAY ADJUSTMENT

post-59103-1231650856_thumb.jpg

post-59103-1231650927_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Hi, I wish the car is in Melb. but ther is no tunning house for HKS f-con in Melb. I have got an 02 NUR in M/Jade V-spec II 306 awkw 32,000km and that is awesome.May put in the Garrett 2530-5 to get in up to 380kw if I don't get a sale for AUD 97k.(carsales.com) Good luck with your sale. price is very good at 120k but the freight, import duty, GST and luxury tax may be the sticking issue.

pm me or 61 439818008

Hi, I wish the car is in Melb. but ther is no tunning house for HKS f-con in Melb. I have got an 02 NUR in M/Jade V-spec II 306 awkw 32,000km and that is awesome.May put in the Garrett 2530-5 to get in up to 380kw if I don't get a sale for AUD 97k.(carsales.com) Good luck with your sale. price is very good at 120k but the freight, import duty, GST and luxury tax may be the sticking issue.

pm me or 61 439818008

Hi Tim,

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like you've got a very sweet ride also. I'll have a look at your photos shortly. You raised some interesting points which I wasn't aware of, so I thought I'd try to address them.

It's a bummer that you don't have a HKS tuning house in Melbourne (sounds like there would be a market for one). That said though, you don't actually need one for my Nur. You see it's been fully tuned and is equipped with the top of the line HKS F Con V Pro Gold Series ECU. This is a gold box tucked away in the glove box and one of the benefits of this engine management system is that it has the ability to self tune. You simply flick a switch on the gold box and the ECU automatically adjusts the engine's tune based on the defined tuning parameters previously set, along with external factors such as outside air temperature. This self tuning mechanism ensures the car is always optimiumally tuned based on the conditions, i.e. summer vs winter. Therefore no tuning house is required, nor are additional $$$ required to be spent on such exercises. My Nur has two boost modes - low and high. I drive around in low boost 99 % of the time. This operates at 360KW at all four wheels. When you press the button for high boost, you get all 421 KW at all four wheels. The ECU has been set with an 8000 RPM engine limiter. This is to protect the engine and given max torque is delivered before then, you're better off pulling for the next gear, than ringing the lungs out of the engine. As you know, tuned Nurs will quite happily rev to 10,000 RPM.

Re the import duty, luxury tax and GST, I'm not aware of what Australia charges to import cars. I realise ithey're additional costs to contend with though. To help out, I'd be prepared to reduce my price to AUD$115k. This would more than cover the cost of shipping the vehicle to Australia and help towards any duties and or taxes payable.

Feel free to give me a yell on 0064 21 227 4001 if you'd like to discuss further.

Cheers

Phil

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...