Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just of last night I have been having some problems with my car. First of all the idle has become really really rough. The car will literally "shake". Im not exactly sure what it is but it seems to be excessively rich as it struggles to stay alive.

I put new plugs in it today but they did absolutely nothing.

Could it be the AFMs?

When the car is like this, the boost gauge also "flickers" while it is in vaccum.

Any ideas?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25283-something-is-wrong/
Share on other sites

Sounds like it may be a vacuum leak.

The ecu is measuring the air that comes through the AFM, but too much air gets in, so the ecu compensates by adding more fuel as it tries to maintain idle, then it over fuels, cuts the fuel - viscious cycle.

If it is vacuum, you will notice it alot more when hot than when cold too.

My guess anyways:)

have you checked all your vacuum lines?

I may have similar problems with my car.

When I stop up a hill (this occurs when driving normaly beforehand) the revs drop really low (sometimes at this point the car stalls) and then pick themselves. This loops for about 5 seconds (at a frequenct of about 1 cycle per .5sec) and then the revs stabalize.

Background:

I have a s2 R33 gtst.

I have a blitz BOV.

My AFM maxes out at less than 250rwhp on the dyno.

Sometimes when going up a hill at about 4000rpm by engine check light flashes (indicating my AFM is maxing out - its not the quick flashing that indicates pinging).

I'm running low boost (0.6bar) when this happens.

There is a Z32AFM sitting under my bed waiting to be installed to fix my AFM problems.

Anyone know what my problem is?

Mark

Well I am not sure if this is the prob, but does the pump have a non return vavle fitted? I have seen the non return valve taken off the top of 044 pumps to make them easier to connect.

I am sort of guessing :P, but when at idle the fuel pump will switch on and off as fuel pressure increases and decreases, just like when you turn the ignition on and dont start the car, the pump will prime then shut down. I am thinking that perhaps the pump is shutting down, and fuel may be returning back down the lines, which isnt a major problem until you are facing up a hill.

Have a look at boostmeisters low engine rpm stalling thread, goes into detail of wiring fuel pumps to be constantly on to avoid such dramas. Not sure if this is your prob, but may be:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...