Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just gave my RB25 a freshen up. In the list of things that got done, a N1 oil pump installed. My question is directed at oil pressure. Before the install my oil pressure sat at 110kpa, which is spot on when warm. After the N1 was installed i noticed that my oil pressure is much higher - 190kpa when warm.

What are your thoughts?

Surely the oil pump has caused the pressure increase..........? is this good, bad or nothing...

what are the affects of excessive pressure and how much is too much

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252911-another-n1-oil-pump-thread/
Share on other sites

Idle oil pressure is not so important. As long as clean oil is flowing and you have at least 5psi at idle then the engine will not fail as a result.

it is better that you have 190kpa (27.5psi) at warm idle. There is no real 'too much' amount but if I were going to say 'geez that's a bit high', it would be at around 275kpa (40psi). Pressure above 110psi can sometimes lead to issues with seals etc but normally that kind of pressure is only at cold start and/or full throttle with a shimmed high flowing pump - and even then it's only for a short period.

Make sure you have 275kpa (40psi) at around 2500-3000rpm, 410kpa(60psi) at around 4000-6000rpm.

Anything over 6000rpm, try to ensure you have at least 60psi but not so important as long as your revs stay under 7000rpm.

Also keep in mind the thickness of your oil has much more impact on oil pressure than changing the pump (n1 has pretty close to std pressure, some others like tomei are higher than those). Are you using the same oil as before?

Yeh myt oil is always old, i change every 5000kms or 3 months and before and after every track day. Im using castrol edge sport 0w-40 atm. I always use 0w-40, but im thinking i might run thicker w50/w60 at the track.

At idle its 190kpa like i mentioned, at WOT when warm, im sure i see over 600kpa. Can double check today as my gauges have recall

Idle oil pressure is not so important. As long as clean oil is flowing and you have at least 5psi at idle then the engine will not fail as a result.

it is better that you have 190kpa (27.5psi) at warm idle. There is no real 'too much' amount but if I were going to say 'geez that's a bit high', it would be at around 275kpa (40psi). Pressure above 110psi can sometimes lead to issues with seals etc but normally that kind of pressure is only at cold start and/or full throttle with a shimmed high flowing pump - and even then it's only for a short period.

Make sure you have 275kpa (40psi) at around 2500-3000rpm, 410kpa(60psi) at around 4000-6000rpm.

Anything over 6000rpm, try to ensure you have at least 60psi but not so important as long as your revs stay under 7000rpm.

I just gave it a strap in 2nd on the way to get brekkie, i got 620kpa (90psi?) at 6100rpm. Thats ok isnt it? As long as itr doesnt go over 110 psi.

This is my drift car too btw.

I just gave it a strap in 2nd on the way to get brekkie, i got 620kpa (90psi?) at 6100rpm. Thats ok isnt it? As long as itr doesnt go over 110 psi.

This is my drift car too btw.

That's good.

Anything around that or up to 110 is fine really. Even over 110 is fine but its less desirable. Your pressure is good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...