Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Most likely this is a silly question, but when I got my 33 from JAP it came with a "Funky Blue" "drift" hand brake button. I've managed to get that off and source a replacement hand brake (Couldnt buy just the button)

now on my hand brake, it was quite simple, unscrew the button and it came off, on the replacement one however, i cant unscrew it and theres a c clip around the button but for the life of me i cant get it out and i dont want to pull any harder incase i break it?

So my question is, how the heck do i remove this button from the replacement hand brake and then fit it to my existing hand brake??

Sorry for the stupid question, but thanks in advance

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253104-hand-brake-button/
Share on other sites

If the replacement handbrake you've got is the same as yours it might be easier to remove the centre console and replace the whole handbrake lever. I don't know about R33's but R32 centre consoles are easy to remove and if you can't easily get the button out that's what I'd do.

id like to know this also.

ive got that stupid drift button on mine so bought a replacement handbrake couldnt figure out how to remove the buttons so pulled the whole center console out and removed the handbrake... only to realise that you cant get the cable out because of the nut/screw thing at the end.

as far as i could figure it out you would need to remove the entire cable and slide the cable back through the new handbrake from the rear end.

i haven't actually looked at it yet but im pretty sure most handbrakes are crimped on at the rear wheel.

so if anybody could shed some light on this that would be fantastic :wave:

Lol glad to see im not alone!

I've hated that drift handbrake ever since i got it and its been the bane of many "Rice" comments lol

Now i've got a replacement black button (original) i just need to know how to put it on :D

Lol glad to see im not alone!

I've hated that drift handbrake ever since i got it and its been the bane of many "Rice" comments lol

Now i've got a replacement black button (original) i just need to know how to put it on ;)

Do the 'drift' handbrakes actually do anything different performance wise or do they just look 'ricey'?

(Personal Opinion, I'm not fussed)

Edited by MahZaR

there just to make it easier to rip the handbrake when drifting. with a d-button u dont have to worry about pressing it in, whereas a normal button u do have to press it in. whatever floats your boat, both buttons do the same job in the end and who cares if its considered rice or not, spray it black if u care so much

mine came with the car, not my thing at all.

problem is mine doesnt sit in properly, pops out while driving, takes a few goes to get the handbrake on.

cant figure out how to swap them. but havent tried anything apart from what i mentioned in my first post.

mine came with the car from japan too, it used to free spin but not unscrew. i could never find a way that it would lock out like a proper drift button and then one day it just came off completely and wouldnt go back on, hence wanting to put the replacement back on..

any one out there have any ideas on how to put a button from one handbrake onto another one??

adam

I tried to get what i thought was a c clip off last night. It's not a c clip per-say

its more of a c barrel. it looks like a c clip from the top, then you start pulling on it and notice that it extends down under the hand brake. its like a tube but in the shape of a c-clip

any more ideas?? surely some one has pulled one of these apart or off before?/

Ta

Adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...