Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm after some internal and external pictures of a L20et sump (front sump),

I need to see if the oil inlet is right angle to the sump or if it's on a angle,

I'm trying to work out how the oil will return back to the sump from the turbo

see pic

Nigel

post-13098-1232335464_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253224-need-picture-of-l20et-sump/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
hope that helps in some way.

i also welded a hose tail to a mates sump for his set up, but this was fair bit easier to do as both engines were still in the car.

Thank you for the pictures, this shows me how far forward in the pan the fitting is.

Does the fitting go through the sump and stick out inside the sump, or is it flush ?,

the reason I ask, if it's flush the bubbly oil would hang around the outlet and slide down the side of the sump,

if the fitting stuck out (inside the sump), the bubbly oil would drop off into the oils sitting in the bottom of the pan

Nigel

Thank you for the pictures, this shows me how far forward in the pan the fitting is.

Does the fitting go through the sump and stick out inside the sump, or is it flush ?,

the reason I ask, if it's flush the bubbly oil would hang around the outlet and slide down the side of the sump,

if the fitting stuck out (inside the sump), the bubbly oil would drop off into the oils sitting in the bottom of the pan

Nigel

Much chance you can grab a picture or two ?

Nigel

both the fittings i made up just sat flush with the sump. mates car is still running yr or so on so must work.

unsure how the factory sumps r set up...

Pretty sure my post above explained that easly enough. But here is a pic

DSCF0320.jpg

You can just see the oil return on the bottom edge of the exhasut housing..

DSCF0324.jpg

EAsly seen here

Ok, this is what I have to work with,

I have 4 different sumps,

the first is my spare L28, the second and third are my original 240K, the fourth and fifth are my other 240, and the last one is my parts MR30, as you can see, the last one has the spot to put the fitting like the above pictures, the other 3 are a few inches deep (shallow part of the pan), so I assume I could put the fitting in that area,

Nigel

post-13098-1233568591_thumb.jpg

post-13098-1233568656_thumb.jpg

post-13098-1233568941_thumb.jpg

post-13098-1233568950_thumb.jpg

post-13098-1233568960_thumb.jpg

post-13098-1233568975_thumb.jpg

Edited by noddle

dont think it matters man, as long as it can drain back to the sump and is above the oil level?

Pretty sure my post above explained that easly enough. But here is a pic

sorry didnt see urs, posted at same time chump

Edited by OUTATIME
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...