Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im building an 26/30 with twin tdo5 turbo fully built and will be driven pretty hard mostly track use drifting and stuff, wat oil pump should i use and its also going to has a high energy sump, tossing up jun and n1. dont really want to spend the money on a dry sump either

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rough cost for external:

BDG Pump - $997.7

BDG Pump Pulley - $165

BDG Crank Pulley - $121

Bracket for mouting under alternator - $40

Peterson harmonic balancer adapter (ATI) - $250

Custom sump with external pickup - $800

Peterson inline filter (between pickup and pump) - $80

Braided lines - ~$500

or if ur using an internal pickup, u can weld 2 fittings onto a std oil pump and pickup and feed straight into the block from there, so u'd save on braided lines

very good! thanks. any links on said parts?

BDG stuff from BDG direct http://motorsport.bdg.com.au/drysump.html

Bracket i made (have cad file as i got them laser cut, u can have the file or i can get some cut)

peterson balancer adapter from rocket/mscn

Sump from craig @ extreme custom engineering in brisbane

Peterson filter again from either rocket/mscn

Lines from mscn/vpw

whats bdj?

Billet Design Group (BDG) - a company in western australia that do a heap of billet race gear. dry sump pumps, they do the race engines for Jay Upton's top fuel bike

  • 3 weeks later...
if you go the nitto just remember they are set up to run high oil persure i just had to pull my sump of to lower the persure

HI,

What oil pressure did you have and what did you drop it to?

My N1 pump is putting out 8 bar (120psi) at 3000rpm.

I will have to reduce pressure as well.

HI,

What oil pressure did you have and what did you drop it to?

My N1 pump is putting out 8 bar (120psi) at 3000rpm.

I will have to reduce pressure as well.

120 psi at 3000rpm thats way to much the pump should have two springs in the bottom where the nut is. remove the smaller one and it will drop to about 70 psi at full nosie but you do have to remove the sump

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
×
×
  • Create New...