Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just bought some new wheels. :)

The are 19x8.5 front and 19x9.5 rear.

On the rear i am fitting 265's and know i need lip the gaurds on my 32.

Just wondering if people know of a good place in melbourne to do this..... and also what its worth to do?

Any info i really appreciate.

Once rims are on ill be posting pics =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254706-new-wheels-lipped-gaurds/
Share on other sites

how easy do the guards "flare" on an r32 gtst??

im undecided as to get some nice rims that dont fit, and make them fit, or just get different rims later.

ive found some awesome rims that look phat on the car, and most importantly, they are the right price, from what the importer can tell they are 17x8 and 17x9, but the 255s on the rears fit too well, so im thinkin they might be a 9.5" and 8.5"

the rears, with the car still jacked up, the edge of the rim was almost an inch out from the body.. the top of the tyre was about 15mm out.. but with a stretched 235 tyre it will come close, so some slight flairing will be needed.. im just worried that the rim itself will still be sticking out too far to look any good

the fronts stuck out a bit, but not an issue, ill just fit some wider guards or something but the fronts didnt have tyres on so i couldnt drop it down to check fitment properly.

i might go back and just put a rear on and see what happens.. my car is pretty low and has lots of rear camber at the moment so hmm...

the rims in question are Panasport GT's and suit my 32 really well.

so do i get them and flare the guards to suit?? or just not get them?

cheers

Linton

Edited by NZM.031

look at the wheel and on the inside will be the size and offset...

from this someone will be able to tell you how it will fit on a 32gtst

15mm out and stretched tyres should fit fine....

i'm running 18 x 9.5 +30 and it sits around 10mm out if my guards, and i deff have room for another 5mm i also have near flat camber and the car is slammed pretty far. i run 235's

i checked for a sticker or any sign of an indication of offset or size.. nothing there... the shop annoyed me and when i got the wheel on and saw instantly that it didnt fit, i cracked it and didnt really have a good look i guess. my bad.

Hi all,

Just bought some new wheels. :D

The are 19x8.5 front and 19x9.5 rear.

On the rear i am fitting 265's and know i need lip the gaurds on my 32.

Just wondering if people know of a good place in melbourne to do this..... and also what its worth to do?

Any info i really appreciate.

Once rims are on ill be posting pics =)

do you know the offset of those wheels?

i think 265 /19 will be too much for gtst guards , unless it has like +40 offset?

hey Excess...

They are plus 38 offset.

When i spoke to the dealer he said they would fit but might need to tuck the gaurds / lip the gaurd a little bit jut to make sure.

Im going to wait till the wheels get here on Monday and try them then see if i need to.

Was just curious, im sure people have had this done before and was wondering a good place to get them done. (around melb)

hmm being 19" its most likely you'll have to roll. with a +38 offset you might not have to lip unless ur car is super low. i think 265 might be a little over kill if you want to really tuck them in. run 245 or 255.

how easy do the guards "flare" on an r32 gtst??

im undecided as to get some nice rims that dont fit, and make them fit, or just get different rims later.

ive found some awesome rims that look phat on the car, and most importantly, they are the right price, from what the importer can tell they are 17x8 and 17x9, but the 255s on the rears fit too well, so im thinkin they might be a 9.5" and 8.5"

the rears, with the car still jacked up, the edge of the rim was almost an inch out from the body.. the top of the tyre was about 15mm out.. but with a stretched 235 tyre it will come close, so some slight flairing will be needed.. im just worried that the rim itself will still be sticking out too far to look any good

the fronts stuck out a bit, but not an issue, ill just fit some wider guards or something but the fronts didnt have tyres on so i couldnt drop it down to check fitment properly.

i might go back and just put a rear on and see what happens.. my car is pretty low and has lots of rear camber at the moment so hmm...

the rims in question are Panasport GT's and suit my 32 really well.

so do i get them and flare the guards to suit?? or just not get them?

cheers

Linton

Did you even take the car off the jack? Once you do the the wheels will camber inwards and might fit without, or just lip the guards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...