Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well from what i have read on forum is that as long as you change the oil in the box @ the right times you should be ok, mind you the oil is super expensive for a full trans flush. The other problem is that not many people know how to fix the CVT auto if something goes wrong

Edited by 180 wanabe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254888-v35-cvt-8/#findComment-4398929
Share on other sites

I like the idea of the CVT-8 but have seen on here that some people have had horrid experiences with them. Is there a converse though? Has anyone had extended trouble-free mileage on a CVT-8?

I've had mine for 15000kms and haven't had any problems yet. The odometer is still fairly low @ 44000kms though. I don't think the CVT box is as fragile as people on this forum put it out to be, its just that if in the rare case that if something goes wrong, no one knows how to fix it - so even if its a minor problem, it then becomes a major problem.

I still love the paddle shifts and starting to love the way the 'box kinda spools up when you put your foot down. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254888-v35-cvt-8/#findComment-4398952
Share on other sites

Mine's at 61000km and still going strong, never misses a beat. Very smooth during day to day driving, and paddles for those spirited times!

As per what Tien said, the problems aren't all that people put it out to be. People whose CVT trannies 'breaking' or 'exploding' on this forum have not given us the exact low-down on how theirs broke/the cause, leaving us to conclude that these failures are attributed to excessive abuse. Changing the oil every 100,000km I believe should be enough for a trouble-free life - expensive though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254888-v35-cvt-8/#findComment-4398970
Share on other sites

Mine's at 61000km and still going strong, never misses a beat. Very smooth during day to day driving, and paddles for those spirited times!

As per what Tien said, the problems aren't all that people put it out to be. People whose CVT trannies 'breaking' or 'exploding' on this forum have not given us the exact low-down on how theirs broke/the cause, leaving us to conclude that these failures are attributed to excessive abuse. Changing the oil every 100,000km I believe should be enough for a trouble-free life - expensive though.

100,000km ? Is THAT the normal maintenance cycle? Then its like the timing belts - big repair every 5-10 years, Hmmmmm - not so bad.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254888-v35-cvt-8/#findComment-4399077
Share on other sites

When do you suppose to change the Tranny oil? Mine only done 35K km atm and 2003. Not sure if ever been changed or not.

Hey guys, I have researched this quite a bit since I have the 350GT-8 myself. The information I have may already be known, but its scattered around so I'll put the most important facts here.

1 - The transmission was made by Jatco Ltd. They make transmissions for a lot of major car companies worldwide. (www.jatco.co.jp/ENGLISH/index.html)

2 - However the rollers within the transmission, (utilising molybdenum for durability) were made by NSK Ltd. (www.nsk.com)

3 - The unique transmission oil was made by Idemitsu Kosan Co. Ltd, they even won awards for it. (www.idemitsu.co.jp/e/lube/index.html)

Now onto the question of maintenance. Below is a graph from the Idemitsu Kosan website which shows the practical performance of the oil over a given distance.

You'll notice that the fluid degradation starts rising at around the 90,000km mark, and from that point forward, rises steadily.

This, in my opinion, would indicate that a complete oil change should occur at no later than 120,000km, to minimise potential damage.

post-57698-1233487323_thumb.jpg

My 350GT-8 is at 130,000km and is only now starting to show signs of deteriorating performance. I will have the new oil in a few days, then I can change it and update all on the difference a change makes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254888-v35-cvt-8/#findComment-4401677
Share on other sites

I went to see a V35 GT-8 on Saturday and loved it but after discussions with the selling dealer - and note this - on that car which was in very fine condition - he would only offer the statutory 3 months warranty wheras all other stock had 12 months extendable to three or five years - I just baulked. So... much as I liked the idea of the CVT-8 the potential for financial disaster was too much to worry about in a car of this price bracket. Anyways.... now I'm working to import a manual 4 door - at least that's a known quantity and repairable here (basically same box as the 350z) for the usual type of dollars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254888-v35-cvt-8/#findComment-4401798
Share on other sites

I went to see a V35 GT-8 on Saturday and loved it but after discussions with the selling dealer - and note this - on that car which was in very fine condition - he would only offer the statutory 3 months warranty wheras all other stock had 12 months extendable to three or five years - I just baulked. So... much as I liked the idea of the CVT-8 the potential for financial disaster was too much to worry about in a car of this price bracket. Anyways.... now I'm working to import a manual 4 door - at least that's a known quantity and repairable here (basically same box as the 350z) for the usual type of dollars.

What were the specs and price on the car in question Larry?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254888-v35-cvt-8/#findComment-4402348
Share on other sites

What were the specs and price on the car in question Larry?

The car itself was lovely - Silver, Leather, Bose, Sunroof, Tint, Rear wiper - lovely car and everything I want. Price was a few grand higher than they are going for generally at dealers but you know how it is - there are 'Dealers' and there are Dealers so because this place has a good reputation that didn't worry me too much. Mileage was high - about double the norm for a 2003. Condition was about a Grade 4 - some minor paint defects. If it was a 5 speed or a manual, I'd most probably have bought it.

Edited by SARRAS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254888-v35-cvt-8/#findComment-4403192
Share on other sites

I went to see a V35 GT-8 on Saturday and loved it but after discussions with the selling dealer - and note this - on that car which was in very fine condition - he would only offer the statutory 3 months warranty wheras all other stock had 12 months extendable to three or five years - I just baulked. So... much as I liked the idea of the CVT-8 the potential for financial disaster was too much to worry about in a car of this price bracket. Anyways.... now I'm working to import a manual 4 door - at least that's a known quantity and repairable here (basically same box as the 350z) for the usual type of dollars.

might want to think about importing a second time.

just got a car from J-spec and Craig was great with finding exactly what i want (70th anniversary V35 coupe). but due to the crappy doller.. i had to pay almost AUS $ 1000 more on the FOB price.. and when the Car lands then again shipping fees have to be paid on US $ and i am guessing that not going to be a good rate either..

so unless you can not really find anything you like locally, might want to think twice about importing.

another thing i notice bidding on Jap auctions was that although japan is in the middle of a much worse economic crisis than us, the auction prices have not comedown by much .. well i only know about v35 the auction prices , definitely not to out done the Aus $

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254888-v35-cvt-8/#findComment-4403719
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...