Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I am at my wits end to solve this problem ive had with squealing brakes. Im running QFM D1RM pads on DBA 4000 slotted rotors. Rotors were brand spankers when pads went on.

I have tried:

With shims

Without Shims

With shims and CRC Red anti squeal glue between the shim and the pads backing plate.

Without shims and the anti squeal glue between the calliper and the pad

Using the glue to glue in all parts - The pins, the spring and the saftey pin to stop them from vibrating

I also tried the above with a loctite substance on the recommendation of the seller of these pads, again, no effect.

I have also extensively cleaned the rotors, calipers and surrounding parts to remove dust build ups.

After none of this worked, I got more aggressive. I compared the profile of the pad to a Bendix ultimate pad and noticed the ultimate had sloped edges. I used sand paper to rough up the top of the pad then wear away the edges so they were slanted, then went and bedded the brakes back in. This seems to have somewhat reduced the effect but its still quite strong.

im now completely out of ideas. Any assistance I could get would be great. This is ruining the whole driving experience for me as I am afraid to touch the brakes for fear of drawing massive amounts of attention to myself. The pads I use are supposed to be quiet and not squeal and have had tons of good reviews, and I have seen them used in other cars with excellent results. Their performance is awesome with lots of bight and no fade but the noise is unbearable.

Help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254897-squealing-breaks/
Share on other sites

Mate, i am in the same boat as you, i have been told that if you do not grease up your caliper bolts then the caliper can f**k up and cause squealing.

ATM i have 2 rounded wheel nuts on the side thats making so much noise so i havent had a chance to test this out but once i have i will re post with my findings.

Good luck mate, i know EXACTLY how it feels.

Greasing up the caliper bolts? Haven't heard of that before.....

Me either (for squealing). AFAIK greasing bolts is done to ensure that bolt tension is the most accurate when combined with a torque wrench, because it creates a predictable level of friction between the thread mating surfaces. You use a lower torque setting for greased vs dry but end up with the same level of bolt tension. When i installed my brake upgrade kit UAS told me to use the thread lube stuff. For a lot of stuff its not worth worrying about, but for flywheel bolts (and i guess calliper bolts) etc its important.

The research i did suggested that the squealing is caused by vibration between the calliper piston and pad.

FWIW, my old setup with the stock callipers was; pad backing plate -> shim -> shim grease -> shim -> red goo -> calliper piston, and I had no noise at all. I never worried that much about special bedding in procedures (but that doesnt mean you shouldnt).

By calliper bolts do you mean the two bolts that old the callipers on? Should I grease them up? Ive just dont them up as tight as i can, I was thinking of loctiting them in with a soft threadlocker.

Or do you mean the two bolts that go through the pads to hold them in place? If this is the case, what grease should I use? I tried coating them in the CRC red stuff and this seemed to help for a while but the effect soon returned.

To bed in, I used rough sand paper to rough up the top of the pad then I basically did 6 - 8 100 - 20 or so stops and a few 60 - 0 stops in a local back street however I didnt want to annoy too many people so I left it at that, the brakes were squealing rather badly and the car is not quiet by any means.

Correction, grease up the caliper slide pins.

ATM i have bendix standards in my car and i have feeling they could be the culprit, although its weird that bendix standards would squeak.

I have bought CRC de-squeak and sprayed my front rotors, this has helped a little bit but the squeal still comes back but not as bad.

Nissan pads are the go. I tried 4 differnet types of pads in the back of my R33 (Bosch, RB74s, and others) all squealed like buggery no matter what i tried. It drove me up the wall and sometimes i just didnt want to drive my car as it screeched so much. I have slotted rotors, stock calipers, nothing flash. Got some second hand Nissan pads for rear, and the first day they went in i had a little tear in my eye, not a single screech.

Not even a squeak since, months later, soooooo relieved.

Just put an ad in WANTED section for second hand Nissan pads, they are dam cheap and someone always has some lying around.

I only have Nissan ones on the rear, i have RaceBrakes RB74s on the front. The fronts get a bit noisy every few months with too much city driving, then a few high speed stops on the freeway burns the crap off and they are good as gold once more.

Good luck on your quest mate, its a relief at the end when they are dead silent all the time. :)

same boat mate... i put rb74s on the front with new dba 4000s aswell and the squeeking is hideous... it does it when the brakes get some heat in them... when you pull up at the lights it happens when the car has almost come to a stop. drives me crazy.

Brother put on 4000s with bendix advanced pads and same thing... tried everything you have but couldnt get rid of it.

Sounds like a common annoying problem many of us share. Anyone use other performance pads with dba 4000s that dont sqeak???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...