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Turbos were going bad on my R32 GTR so I replaced them with stock R33 turbos. The very first time I started it the hicas light came on and the steering was heavy.

So I pulled back into the garage thinking that I didn't tighten up the belt or the fluid level was low. After popping the bonnet and poking around a little I couldn't find anything wrong. Belt is new. Fluid looks clean and is full. Pump looks fine. No leaks. So I took the car out hoping that it just clear up on its own. No change after 10-20 km of driving.

I live in the USA and it's difficult to source new RB parts. I really don't want to replace the pump unless I know it's bad. Is there anything else I can check before spending money on a new pump?

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255196-power-steering-failure/
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well mate it all comes back to basic common sence.... was the pump working b4 u changed the turbos.... do the turbos have nethin to do with power steering. obviously sumthing uve missed here cuz ps pumps dont just shit emselves sitting still

Edited by skylinekid
is the passenger side wheel speed sensor plugged in...its down near where you were working. This item not plugged in will disable the hicas.

The connector right in front of the ABS unit? Blue wires? Looks good... Pulled it apart and put it back together just to make sure.

well mate it all comes back to basic common sence.... was the pump working b4 u changed the turbos.... do the turbos have nethin to do with power steering. obviously sumthing uve missed here cuz ps pumps dont just shit emselves sitting still

I'm just banging my head on the wall trying to figure out what I broke while I was swapping turbos. :P

Edited by DanShirts
The connector right in front of the ABS unit? Blue wires? Looks good... Pulled it apart and put it back together just to make sure.

I'm just banging my head on the wall trying to figure out what I broke while I was swapping turbos. :P

its the small one that goes through the inner guard near the brake line to the passenger side front brakes. Its lower than the ABS down near the chassis rail

is it possible to do a diagnostics check...

Yes it is, and it's the first thing to do before trying to 'guess' where the problem lies.

DanShirts - suggest doing a search on these forums for 'HICAS diagnostics' as I'm sure someone will have posted the procedure + error codes previously.

Also suggest you get a hold of a workshop manual as all this is covered (I'm sure it's available for download from somewhere.......)

Yes it is, and it's the first thing to do before trying to 'guess' where the problem lies.

DanShirts - suggest doing a search on these forums for 'HICAS diagnostics' as I'm sure someone will have posted the procedure + error codes previously.

Also suggest you get a hold of a workshop manual as all this is covered (I'm sure it's available for download from somewhere.......)

I found the post about hicas diagnostic, but the car wont go into diag mode. (?) I must have tried 6 or 7 times. I will try again tomorrow when I have more time.

  • 2 weeks later...
Is there another way I can get the codes?

No, you'll just have to keep trying. If you hadn't touched the steering wheel, etc as part of the other work, it seems unlikely that would be the problem, BUT it might be possible. Before randomly swapping parts tho, I'd be going through every connector + checking all hoses and pipes, as it seems that your problem is related to the turbo install (particularly if everything was fine beforehand, apart from the turbo's themselves).

One of the relays in the boot is having trouble. It clicks about once every 30 seconds. It's very quiet and I wouldn't have noticed it if didn't get into the boot when the car was running.

Part number 25230-05U00. Fast calls it is the "Anti Skid Relay". I'm pretty confident that this relay (or the wiring or whatever it's connected to) is the problem. I will post again when I have more information.

Edited by DanShirts

Got it fixed. The relay connector was bad, but that wasn't the problem. The 12v wire that goes to the steering angle sensor had a break right next to the connector. Patched and running strong!

Thanks for all the help!

Edited by DanShirts

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